All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress

Up the Wizard's Sleeve

Name: Up the Wizard's Sleeve
Rating: 3.0

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in 4. Third Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	17 Chicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Antofil S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Baron Von Sauerkraut S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Beer Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Boffedes V6 7A
	Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dragon's Tooth S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Gary's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Happy Flying T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kurt Albert Gedächtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Meatball (aka. Mr. Ugly aka. Coloring Book) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Minatori S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moselstraße 7 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rocambole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Wanderer, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS:	38.14336, -80.91556
FA:	Brian Kramer 4/2023. Equipper: Rudaw Janowic, Krzysztof Pondel 2011.
Page Views:	255 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Brian Kramer on Apr 22, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

**NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.

THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***

Description

"Amateur Project" in most recent Williams guidebook. Climbs the giant corner to the right of 'Striptease.' After pulling hard on a flake to get established, continue up moderate stems and jams to the base of a wild bombay chimney. Arm bars and chicken wings might be just the magic you need to make your through the crux.

Used a knee pad on the back of my arm for the first ascent, hence the Wizard's Sleeve ;)

Equipped by Rudaw Janovic 2011