All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress

First, Last, and Always

Name: First, Last, and Always
Rating: 3.6

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

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Routes in 4. Third Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	17 Chicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	17 Chicks underpants V4-5 6B+
	Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Antofil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Baron Von Sauerkraut S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Beer Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Boffedes V6 7A
	Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dragon's Tooth S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Gary's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Happy Flying T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kurt Albert Gedächtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Meatball (aka. Mr. Ugly aka. Coloring Book) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Minatori S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moselstraße 7 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rocambole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tita S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Wanderer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	38.14336, -80.91556
FA:	Mark Stevenson 1997
Page Views:	4,141 total · 27/month
Shared By:	AndyJohnson on Apr 29, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Private Property - Access Closed Details

The Meadow River is almost entirely private property and mostly CLOSED to climbing, EXCEPT Lower Meadow routes and boulders and Meadow Top boulders. The only public land, part of the Gauley River National Recreation Area, is far downstream and has no good access without crossing over closed private property.

Access Issue: CLICK HERE TO REPORT BAD BOLTS! Details

Description

A long and adventurous route leads past several interesting sequences separated by good rests.

Be careful climbing past some flaky rock at the 1st bolt. Continue up an easier slab and crack section to a stance at the 4th bolt. Move up, clip the 5th bolt, and traverse left to a nice layback move up to a ledge with the 6th bolt. Rest up here for the crux. Reach up high to crimps and deadpoint to a good ledge. Clip the 7th bolt and negotiate the angled flake and a crimp to reach the ledge above the 8th bolt. Find the nice holds on the ledge and move up to a rest at the 9th bolt. Some easier, but pumpy climbing leads past the last bolt to a few crimps just before the anchor-clipping jug.

Location

Far right section of 3rd Buttress, walk under huge roof with Bittersweet and Shaken, Not Stirred. On the wall to the right of this roof, this is the right-hand bolt line. The start to Beer Pressure / Dean's Route is to the left.