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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
First, Last, and Always
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 58
votes
Routes in 4. Third Buttress
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Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Antofil S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baron Von Sauerkraut S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Boffedes V6 7A |
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Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gary's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Flying T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kurt Albert Gedächtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Meatball (aka. Mr. Ugly aka. Coloring Book) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moselstraße 7 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanderer, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson 1997 |
| Page Views: | 3,849 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | AndyJohnson on Apr 29, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
A long and adventurous route leads past several interesting sequences separated by good rests.
Be careful climbing past some flaky rock at the 1st bolt. Continue up an easier slab and crack section to a stance at the 4th bolt. Move up, clip the 5th bolt, and traverse left to a nice layback move up to a ledge with the 6th bolt. Rest up here for the crux. Reach up high to crimps and deadpoint to a good ledge. Clip the 7th bolt and negotiate the angled flake and a crimp to reach the ledge above the 8th bolt. Find the nice holds on the ledge and move up to a rest at the 9th bolt. Some easier, but pumpy climbing leads past the last bolt to a few crimps just before the anchor-clipping jug.
Be careful climbing past some flaky rock at the 1st bolt. Continue up an easier slab and crack section to a stance at the 4th bolt. Move up, clip the 5th bolt, and traverse left to a nice layback move up to a ledge with the 6th bolt. Rest up here for the crux. Reach up high to crimps and deadpoint to a good ledge. Clip the 7th bolt and negotiate the angled flake and a crimp to reach the ledge above the 8th bolt. Find the nice holds on the ledge and move up to a rest at the 9th bolt. Some easier, but pumpy climbing leads past the last bolt to a few crimps just before the anchor-clipping jug.
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