Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Mark Stevenson (1997)
Page Views: 2,405 total · 21/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Apr 2, 2012
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson, Pat Goodman

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

Description

Bittersweet is a fun climb that is marred by a manufactured hold between the second and third bolts. Without the addition of this glued on rock the climb would probably be a really nasty 14- or it might not even be possible. Even with the addition of the stone this is still the location of the crux.

Start with 15 feet of roof climbing on sculpted slopers. Clip the second bolt and then blitz the crux swing dyno. Take a really good rest at the third bolt before taking on a second easier crux. The second crux involves some small crimps and a long lock off at near vertical angle. Climb through several more bolts of bizarre rock, some of which is purple. One more hard move awaits you as you clear the final roof. It is kind of bewildering hanging the draw at the roof so stay focused. Fifteen more feet of steep jug hauling takes you to the top of the cliff. Lots of variety on this one. Surprisingly rope drag is not an issue even if you use all short draws.

Location

Far right end of the third buttress. Its the steepest route in the cave.

Protection

11 bolts + anchor

Photos