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Routes in Third Buttress

Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Sexgiving S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joli goes to zermont S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moselstra├če S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pondel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shake And Not Stir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermoon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Stevenson (1997)
Page Views: 1,139 total, 16/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Apr 2, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Bittersweet is a fun climb that is marred by a manufactured hold between the second and third bolts. Without the addition of this glued on rock the climb would probably be a really nasty 14- or it might not even be possible. Even with the addition of the stone this is still the location of the crux.

Start with 15 feet of roof climbing on sculpted slopers. Clip the second bolt and then blitz the crux swing dyno. Take a really good rest at the third bolt before taking on a second easier crux. The second crux involves some small crimps and a long lock off at near vertical angle. Climb through several more bolts of bizarre rock, some of which is purple. One more hard move awaits you as you clear the final roof. It is kind of bewildering hanging the draw at the roof so stay focused. Fifteen more feet of steep jug hauling takes you to the top of the cliff. Lots of variety on this one. Surprisingly rope drag is not an issue even if you use all short draws.

Location

Far right end of the third buttress. Its the steepest route in the cave.

Protection

11 bolts + anchor

Photos

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