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5.11c, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 51 votes
FA: Doug Reed
W Virginia > New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


Start by climbing the steep crack system until you're just below the large roof. Follow the thin holds out and left aiming for the left corner of the roof (crux). Pull up left into a small corner and then head up and right using good holds to reach a stance above the large roof. From here, the climbing eases up, but you still have another 30 feet or so of climbing to reach the anchors. Very sustained.


To locate this route from the approach trail. First locate Meathead, 5.11c or Starry, 5.12b, they are right at the point where the trail meets the cliff. Walk right along the cliff until you come to a broken crack system that leads to a roof (approximately 25 yards). This route follows the line of bolts next to the crack.


9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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rope line
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[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb, could really use some new hardware, or at least new anchors. The ancient small eyelets up top aren't too confidence inspiring, and are a pain to work with. Strange to see since this route is a classic...and everything around it has bright shiny new stainless hardware, and even shuts. May 25, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
[Hide Comment] I completely agree with you on this and this is on my list to rebolt. Everything else out there is fairly new and done by people that aren't part of the main NRG rebolting community. May 26, 2015
David Kalal
Rahway, NJ
[Hide Comment] Thank you to whomever placed the beautiful new anchors! Great route! May 29, 2017
[Hide Comment] Among the best routes of the grade in the region -- tall and intimidating, with more 5.11 climbing than you expect from the ground. Consistently harder if short. Mar 6, 2018