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W Virginia
> New River Gorge
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 3. Second Buttress
Load
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 25
votes
Routes in 3. Second Buttress
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Bull Schneezal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bullocks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ferrovieri S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Frog Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Girl in the Hornet's Nest S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heavy Bigos Lover S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ikar Lost S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kenny Said So T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kimba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Load S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Madmen Rule the World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Minotaur S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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One Banana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pistol Whip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Red Bull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rodent's Party S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Schneezal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spaghetti Blues S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Transfat S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Two Eggs and Two Martinis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unload S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed Left 2 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zombia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,301 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Nov 22, 2009 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Description
Climb straight up to reach the 1st bolt. From here, traverse a bit left and then back right to gain a vertical seam below the overhang. Climb up to reach the jugs in the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt at the lip and then head up and right to gain a stance above the roof. Clip the 4th bolt and head out right on to the face for a good rest. Easy climbing on incredibly good holds to the top.
Photos
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