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Routes in 3. Second Buttress

Bull Schneezal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bullocks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frog Hunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ikar Lost S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Load S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Madmen Rule the World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Minotaur S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Banana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pistol Whip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Bull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rodent's Party S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Schneezal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 213 total · 4/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on May 5, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb easier rock to the second bolt. From here, decide if you want to try to find holds in the blank-looking face straight up, or climb easy rock up and far right and then traverse back to the bolt. Repeat for bolts 4 and 5, but by climbing less far off the bolt line. Climb steeper rock on good holds to the top.

Climbing this route using holds to the right of bolts 3-5 and traversing back to clip is still 5.10d. It appears that climbing directly on bolt line would be harder.

Location

Right side of Second Buttress, currently second bolt line from the right. Start with a high step over a low roof.

Protection

7 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Not a good idea to fall just before traversing back left to clip the 3rd bolt. The climbing on this leftward traverse is not hard, but not trivial.

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