Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jim Damon & John Bercaw
Page Views: 4,946 total · 53/month
Shared By: camhead on May 16, 2011
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Hyper-classic climb, in three parts. Start up a vertical face with climbing that is just a tiny bit tougher than you want it to be. Get to good jugs at the roof, and bust out through dead-horizontal, Obed-style flakes and huecos. Great shake spot just over the roof. The final headwall is where it all comes together; around 6 bolts of consistant 35 degree overhanging perfect rock, with several v3-4ish boulder problems separated by good jugs. This climb does not let up until the very end.

Location

Prominent line going out the steepest part of the roof, just left of the obvious "Greatest Show" roof crack.

Protection

12 or 13 bolts. Through the roof are perma-draws, and project draws are often hung on the headwall.

Photos

Yesterday, I almost broke off a crimp with clipping slack out for the 3rd bolt. This would have been a ground fall from 20+ feet and bad news. I had used the crimp in sessions before, but we broke it off the wall this time and placed it at the bottom of the cliff. The move still goes fine, its just a gaston now, and I would advise clipping from the large holds below. Use a bit of caution on the bottom half with crimps, but the top half is 100% bomber rock. Nov 11, 2013
I wish that the headwall climbing would go on for another pitch. Incredible 3-part journey with good shakes in between, and totally unforgettable moves. Sep 23, 2015