Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|Page Views:||7,648 total · 58/month|
|Shared By:||jgallagher Gallagher on Oct 5, 2010|
|Admins:||Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson|
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Start on top of a boulder just down and right of a fixed pin. Climb through a slightly heady but easy opening section up to the base of the roof passing two fixed pins and a gear placement. From a pumpy stance on a slopey jug place several good cams and get your head together for an amazing roof sequence on horizontal finger locks. A few crimps to the left of the crack as well as a good hand jam near the end of the roof make this roof possible. A huge jug just over the lip allows you to place a much appreciated piece of gear. From the jug a couple lock offs on good slots get you into the corner. Place gear from a decent rest stance and gun for a good hand jam before the business of the corner. Slopey laybacks and miserable feet with insecure stems characterize the middle part of the corner and placing gear is pretty strenuous. In the last 15 feet of the corner the crack opens up and allows for great hands but the feet stay pretty bad so its still relatively strenuous to place gear. Its easy enough to where you will almost want to just punch through and not bother with gear. It would be a long fall but very clean, the choice is yours.
Note that the face leading up to the roof has definite no fall zones just because the pins are very sketchy looking. Up until the first real gear placement the climbing is 5.9-5.10R.