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Routes in Greatest Show Area

Back to Power T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Begoon/Artz Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Top T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackened Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carny Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Greatest Show On Earth, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Interpreting Intermission S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mango Tango S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Puppy Chow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ringmaster, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scratchy Biscuits T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ziggerknot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Lynn Hill
Page Views: 4,282 total, 49/month
Shared By: jgallagher on Oct 5, 2010
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is one of the prettiest pitches of climbing in the southeast as well as one of the most intimidating looking finger cracks just about anywhere.

Start on top of a boulder just down and right of a fixed pin. Climb through a slightly heady but easy opening section up to the base of the roof passing two fixed pins and a gear placement. From a pumpy stance on a slopey jug place several good cams and get your head together for an amazing roof sequence on horizontal finger locks. A few crimps to the left of the crack as well as a good hand jam near the end of the roof make this roof possible. A huge jug just over the lip allows you to place a much appreciated piece of gear. From the jug a couple lock offs on good slots get you into the corner. Place gear from a decent rest stance and gun for a good hand jam before the business of the corner. Slopey laybacks and miserable feet with insecure stems characterize the middle part of the corner and placing gear is pretty strenuous. In the last 15 feet of the corner the crack opens up and allows for great hands but the feet stay pretty bad so its still relatively strenuous to place gear. Its easy enough to where you will almost want to just punch through and not bother with gear. It would be a long fall but very clean, the choice is yours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBP6iyr6t6Y

Location

Starts 15 feet right of puppy chow on a boulder.

Protection

Bring several cams up to a number 1. Emphasis will be on finger sized gear and slightly smaller. The corner eats up stoppers but placing cams instead will be much more efficient. If you choose cams, c3s would be ideal but anything that size will work great.

Note that the face leading up to the roof has definite no fall zones just because the pins are very sketchy looking. Up until the first real gear placement the climbing is 5.9-5.10R.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Established by Lynn Hill and Tim Toula, late '80s Nov 5, 2015