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Routes in Toxic Hueco Area

Boogie Till Ya Need Glasses T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
By the Way, I Did Your Mom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cat Food S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimpanzabubbas T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cock Diesel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crag Memorial S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flying Rodent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghandian Dilution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Cat Go! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inertial Twists S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meadowlark T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Bomb T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Night Time Is the Right Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Trees and Hula Hoops T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxic Hueco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trident S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Trojans T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wasted Wimper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Trash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1987
Page Views: 1,967 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Amazing climb. A must do! Start by climbing the easy section of rock to reach a stance on a large flake below the overhanging crack. Make a few reachy/stemming moves to gain the wider portion of crack above. Place some good gear here and find some tight hand jams to reach a good horizontal (crux). From here, there's still a move or two to reach the shuts.

Location

This is the overhanging crack just to the right of the classic Toxic Hueco.

Protection

Cams and Stoppers under 1.5", mostly small stuff. A single #2 camalot may be useful. Shuts.

Photos

Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I placed different gear than the above poster. Route is well protected with only 2 really hard crack moves with bomber gear, the rest is steep pulling on secure locks, jams, and face holds. Fixed nut was looking a little manky but is probably fine. Really nice route! Jul 13, 2017
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11d
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11d
Fixed nut at the base of the crack looks pretty ragged. I would recommend backing it up with a 0.3 (blue) c4. Gun it a few moves to a decent stem rest (far right) and place a purple c3. Orange master cam or tcu at top of corner before crux. 0.5 c4 up top. Amazing line! Apr 22, 2013