Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1987
Page Views: 2,169 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Amazing climb. A must do! Start by climbing the easy section of rock to reach a stance on a large flake below the overhanging crack. Make a few reachy/stemming moves to gain the wider portion of crack above. Place some good gear here and find some tight hand jams to reach a good horizontal (crux). From here, there's still a move or two to reach the shuts.

Location

This is the overhanging crack just to the right of the classic Toxic Hueco.

Protection

Cams and Stoppers under 1.5", mostly small stuff. A single #2 camalot may be useful. Shuts.

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11d
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11d
Fixed nut at the base of the crack looks pretty ragged. I would recommend backing it up with a 0.3 (blue) c4. Gun it a few moves to a decent stem rest (far right) and place a purple c3. Orange master cam or tcu at top of corner before crux. 0.5 c4 up top. Amazing line! Apr 22, 2013
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I placed different gear than the above poster. Route is well protected with only 2 really hard crack moves with bomber gear, the rest is steep pulling on secure locks, jams, and face holds. Fixed nut was looking a little manky but is probably fine. Really nice route! Jul 13, 2017