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Routes in Toxic Hueco Area

Boogie Till Ya Need Glasses T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
By the Way, I Did Your Mom T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Canine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cat Food S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimpanzabubbas T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cock Diesel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crag Memorial S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flying Rodent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghandian Dilution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gimpy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Cat Go! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I'll Buy That for a Dollar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inertial Twists S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meadowlark T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Bomb T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Night Time Is the Right Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Trees and Hula Hoops T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Revenge of the Gimp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Toxic Hueco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trident S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Trojans T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wasted Wimper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Trash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Harrison Dekker
Page Views: 1,801 total · 20/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 30, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is one of the finest short powerful routes in the New River Gorge region. When viewing it from the ground it is intimidating because it is hard to identify a single positive hold on the pristine white stone. Start by soloing to a large platform 20' off the ground. Be sure to stick clip this one before battling up through exquisite, well textured slopers.

The difficulty arises immediately after clipping the third bolt. Here you must bear down on some shallow pockets, make a long rightward reach, and execute a precision deadpoint to a one inch edge. This V6 boulder problem sequence is 5-8 moves depending on how many intermediates you use. Rest up at the fourth bolt and then climb a 5.11- section to the anchor.

Location

This route starts on the ledge a few routes to the right of Toxic Hueco. Look for the pure white stone.

Protection

4 bolts + anchor

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