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Routes in Toxic Hueco Area

Boogie Till Ya Need Glasses T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
By the Way, I Did Your Mom T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Canine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cat Food S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimpanzabubbas T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cock Diesel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crag Memorial S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flying Rodent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghandian Dilution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Cat Go! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I'll Buy That for a Dollar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inertial Twists S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meadowlark T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Bomb T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Night Time Is the Right Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Trees and Hula Hoops T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxic Hueco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trident S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Trojans T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wasted Wimper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Trash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1993
Page Views: 1,233 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 24, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

This is a great route! Would be deserving of more stars if it was a bit longer. Start on a low boulder below some underclings and hand jams. Make a difficult move to get started and head right at the 2nd bolt. From here, find a kneebar, then continue straight up to the 3rd bolt. Get a quick shake and traverse up and right to reach the 4th bolt. From here, keep it together and head up into the short dihedral below the roof. At the roof, hand over hand traverse left to reach the monster jugs at the lip of the roof to make the final clip. Pull the roof using huge jugs to make one on the most fun moves on the climb to gain the anchors. Overall, the climbing is fairly sustained throughout with a few shakes here and there.

Location

This route is located between Cat Food, 5.11d and Gato, 5.12a.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

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