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W Virginia
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> Meadow River Gorge
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> 2 Toxic Hueco Area
Mind Bomb
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Kenny Parker & Steve Downes, 1989 |
Page Views: | 2,058 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on May 16, 2010 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
This is primarily a sport route with a few pieces of gear. Climb up the face passing 2 bolts to reach the overhang. Reach way out and clip the 3rd bolt with a long draw and then remove the piece in the horizontal at the base of the roof to reduce the drag. Reach out and follow the flakes in the overhang, clip the 4th bolt, and pull up to a stance with a hand jam (crux). From here, make a long reach to a horizontal and then traverse left and up to the pin. Climb up into the corner and follow the plated face to the finish.
Protection
4 bolts, 1 pin, shuts. Bring a light rack. #3 Camalot fits best in the overhang before reaching out to clip the 3rd bolt in the roof, however a #1 Camalot also works well in one spot. .5 Camalot after the crux. A #1 Camalot, a few nuts, TCUs, and slings for the top. There are a few nice chicken heads that can easily be slung in the upper portion. As of 10/10, the first 3 bolts are looking pretty rusted out.
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