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Routes in Toxic Hueco Area

Boogie Till Ya Need Glasses T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
By the Way, I Did Your Mom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cat Food S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimpanzabubbas T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cock Diesel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crag Memorial S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flying Rodent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghandian Dilution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Cat Go! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inertial Twists S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meadowlark T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Bomb T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Night Time Is the Right Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Trees and Hula Hoops T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxic Hueco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trident S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Trojans T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wasted Wimper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Trash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Damon
Page Views: 870 total, 9/month
Shared By: James Otey on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Classic frolicking on steep rock with gargantuan holds. Climb it to the roof and clip the fixed draw at 5.11b or pull the roof for the 5.11d full credit.

Start off by my hopping up on a ledge to clip the first bolt. From here, pull the small roof on buckets and monstrous underclings, eventually navigating the steeps to a good kneebar. Work out of the kneebar using more underclings and buckets, making sure not to get pumped. Pull another roof and grab hold of some crimps with excellent feet for another no-hands rest (if you get it juuust right). Make a few more big moves to yet another kneebar and shake out the forearms before making the 5.11b crux move- a big move to a sloper. Shake out on jugs under the roof and clip the fixed draw. From here, grope around the lip until a good jug can be found. Make a big move to another jug to pull the roof and enjoy juggy plates to the chains.

Location

Buttress to the right of the classic Toxic Hueco

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Brad Leneis
  5.11d
Brad Leneis  
  5.11d
Turning the roof is much easier if tall. Oct 17, 2016
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I didn't find the lip turn or above to be grovelly at all: just a few really fun moves up a finger crack. Great route; do the whole thing! Oct 2, 2013
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Good fun until the roof, which is super awkward. After the fixed draw, you must contend with the tree behind the route by climbing blindly through foliage. Jun 10, 2013
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
four stars to the lip...then grovel! Jan 25, 2011