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Routes in Toxic Hueco Area

Boogie Till Ya Need Glasses T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
By the Way, I Did Your Mom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cat Food S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimpanzabubbas T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cock Diesel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crag Memorial S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flying Rodent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghandian Dilution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Cat Go! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inertial Twists S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meadowlark T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Bomb T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Night Time Is the Right Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Trees and Hula Hoops T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxic Hueco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trident S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Trojans T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wasted Wimper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Trash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jon Regelbrugge, Kenny Parker, Kevin Parker, 1987
Page Views: 1,513 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on May 16, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a really good route. If you brought your trad rack, do it! It feels like a sport route with gear. Start by climb up some large flakes, heading up and left to reach the bolt on a thin face. Make 1 technical thin move (crux) and the head up and right to a stance. The crux is much easier if you are tall. Otherwise you won't be able to easily reach past it. The fall is safe though and is protected by a bomber bolt. From here, climb up the overhanging face on jugs and plates to the finish.

Location

This route is located at the far right end of the Toxic Hueco area or just around the corner and up the hill from Cat Food at the Tan Wall.

Protection

1 bolt, shuts. Rack up to a #3 camalot.

Photos

Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
Clearly both you guys have been up this thing and no pics to add to this fine route database we call Mountain Project? :D Jun 20, 2016
matt swaim
Charlotte, North Carolina
matt swaim   Charlotte, North Carolina
Fair enough. Fun lead with an interesting crux. Especially for us short guys Jun 20, 2016
BrianWS
  5.10
BrianWS  
  5.10
"100%" never suggested that you implied a gear rating. Just reiterating ample gear despite the guidebook's dubious beta. Jun 20, 2016
matt swaim
Charlotte, North Carolina
matt swaim   Charlotte, North Carolina
Thanks, Brian. I "100%" didn't suggest a PG-13 rating. Jun 20, 2016
BrianWS
  5.10
BrianWS  
  5.10
Pro is G rated 100% on this route with a standard rack and no slinging of natural features. Sweet climb, especially the steep and featured upper headwall. Jun 19, 2016
matt swaim
Charlotte, North Carolina
matt swaim   Charlotte, North Carolina
BETA SPOILER ALERT: the guide says there are some chickenheads to sling. I didn't find any worth stopping for. Just ran it until i could get my feet under me. Jun 19, 2016