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Routes in Moon Wall

Bust a Move S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fritz Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggle Box T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Age T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Home Schooled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco the Flood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jugnasium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ledge Access T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Making Whoopie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Neon Parks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nodes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Off My Rocker T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pickled Eggs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket in my Pocket T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slip n' Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tabasco Fur T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tobasco Fart T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truancy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truancy Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to the Meadow T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter Harvest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Howard Clark, Kevin Parker, 1987
Page Views: 1,009 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on May 16, 2010 with updates from Steve Jones
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a real hidden gem for the 5.10 trad climber. The entire route has excellent pro and thought provoking moves the entire way. Climb up some broken ledges to reach a protruding flake (you can sling this for some bomber natural pro). Grab the flake and pull the overhang staying left of some mountain laurel to reach a ledge. From here, wander right and left following the path of least resistance. The crux comes at mid height as you make the first traverse to the left side of the arete. Follow very positive holds and plates to the finish.

Location

Continue walking left along the Moon Wall. When you pass the 2nd waterfall (if it's flowing) continue past some rotten rock until the buttress begins to improve (approximately 100 yds past the waterfall). Locate the arete with a juggy overhang at the start about 20 feet up.

Protection

A standard rack up to a #2 or #3 Camalot. Mostly mid sized gear. New bolted anchors with rap rings

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