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Routes in Narcissus Cave

Deep Throat S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ectomorph Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hang On Little Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jeff's Bunny Hop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locumba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Narcissus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Narcissus Direct S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Project S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Simple Minds S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Smilin' Jack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sniff the Drill S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicide Blonde S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That Eight S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This cave comes just before you hit the crowds of Orange Oswald. It is impressive, and huge, but unfortunately tends to seep, and the only lines that have been sent yet are along its flanks. Still, it is a great place to hang during the rain. The classic line here is Narcissus, located on the far left of the cave, which is many a gym rat's first 5.12a. The far right side houses Deep Throat (13c) and Suicide Blonde (13b), both of which are quality lines of the grade, and great complements to the 13s of the Coliseum. Probably the first line that most people notice here is the impressively tiered roof crack that splits the deepest, steepest part of the cave. This line, which is unfortunately nearly always wet, would undoubtedly be a hard 5.14 if it ever goes free. Some quality 5.11s also flank either side of the cave as its walls become more vertical.

Getting There

Continue past The Long Wall and The Satisfaction Wall and you will reach the Narcissus Cave just before reaching Orange Oswald Wall.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Narcissus Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 134
That Eight
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 120
Sniff the Drill
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 127
Jeff's Bunny Hop
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Locumba
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Smilin' Jack
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Simple Minds
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 169
Narcissus
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 20
Narcissus Direct
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
That Eight
 134
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Sniff the Drill
 120
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Jeff's Bunny Hop
 127
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Locumba
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Smilin' Jack
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Simple Minds
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Narcissus
 169
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Narcissus Direct
 20
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Narcissus Cave »

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Jon Mazza   NJ
Does anyone know the name/grade of the roof crack in the middle? Looks 5.13/5.14 Sep 22, 2013
Gummy
Akron, OH
Gummy   Akron, OH
I am working the crack in the narcissus cave. I would like to clean it off as the base is mega choss, but the roof sections (where the meat of the climb is) is great and dry! Sep 12, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
There's a reason why none of the local strongmen have gone out and gotten on it. Choss. Sep 13, 2016
Ben Turcotte
Lynchburg, VA
Ben Turcotte   Lynchburg, VA
Any info on the routes to the right of Locumba? Two routes - three bolts and anchors. One starts on plates then to a slab then to slopers/pinches and the other follows the crack then to mixed holds. Aug 27, 2018

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