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Cotton Top Climbing
Routes in Cotton Top
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98% Cotton S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ass Waxer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Audiophering S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bio-Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cotton Gin and Tonic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cotton the Act S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cottonhead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cottonmouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Up V0 4 |
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End of Innocence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Final Twilight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fireman's Belay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grinder Center V3 6A |
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High Cotton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Incident V7- 7A+ |
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Intergalactic Orcas S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Johnny Chimpo V5 6C |
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Love Sock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mass Destruction V1 5 |
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Mighty Fine Shindig V5 6C |
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Ostracized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Psycho Wrangler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Q-tip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rheesist, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Super mighty fine shindig V7 7A+ |
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Tainted Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tamarin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown 1 V6 7A |
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Unknown 2 V4 6B |
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We Got Problems V2 5+ |
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Wild and Wonderful S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wurst Route at the New, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Elevation: | 1,039 ft | 317 m |
| GPS: |
38.1151, -81.14094 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 38,682 total · 548/month | |
| Shared By: | CWB on Jun 6, 2019 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This is one of the farthest-downstream crags of the NRG; several miles below Bubba City, and below Hawk's Nest Dam on the New. It's home to a number of good sport routes; Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a, is not to be missed. If this area has seen rain recently, especially a heavy rain, expect to have some runoff, particularly the vertical wall right of Psycho Wrangler. Many of the routes stay wet for a couple days on this wall after a heavy rain.
Getting There
From Fayetteville, drive north on 16 for 7 miles until you hit a bridge that crosses over the New River, just below the Hawk's Nest Dam. The parking is immediately on the right after crossing the bridge. Follow the trail right by the entrance to the parking area (go right at the first Y) to the top of the hill along a short but steep trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Cotton Top
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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