Elevation: 1,039 ft
GPS: 38.115, -81.141 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,653 total · 866/month
Shared By: CWB on Jun 6, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This is one of the farthest-downstream crags of the NRG; several miles below Bubba City, and below Hawk's Nest Dam on the New. It's home to a number of good sport routes; Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a, is not to be missed. If this area has seen rain recently, especially a heavy rain, expect to have some runoff, particularly the vertical wall right of Psycho Wrangler.  Many of the routes stay wet for a couple days on this wall after a heavy rain.

Getting There

From Fayetteville, drive north on 16 for 7 miles until you hit a bridge that crosses over the New River, just below the Hawk's Nest Dam. The parking is immediately on the right after crossing the bridge. Follow the trail behind the parking area (go right at the first Y) to the top of the hill along a short but steep trail.

28 Total Climbs

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Location: Cotton Top Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cotton Top

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 16
We Got Problems
Boulder
V5 6C
 25
Johnny Chimpo
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 17
Incident
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Cotton Gin and Tonic
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Fingers
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 248
Cottonmouth
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
98% Cotton
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 153
Cottonhead
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 170
Q-tip
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 65
End of Innocence
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 17
Cotton the Act
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 183
Psycho Wrangler
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 37
Intergalactic Orcas
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Tainted Love
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
The Rheesist
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
We Got Problems
 16
V2 5+ Boulder
Johnny Chimpo
 25
V5 6C Boulder
Incident
 17
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Cotton Gin and Tonic
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Fingers
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cottonmouth
 248
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
98% Cotton
 28
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cottonhead
 153
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Q-tip
 170
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
End of Innocence
 65
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cotton the Act
 17
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Psycho Wrangler
 183
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Intergalactic Orcas
 37
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tainted Love
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Rheesist
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cotton Top »

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