Elevation: 1,778 ft
GPS: 38.078, -81.063 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,143 total · 814/month
Shared By: CWB on Jun 6, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This is one of the farthest-downstream crags of the NRG; several miles below Bubba City, and below Hawk's Nest Dam on the New. It's home to a number of good sport routes; Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a, is not to be missed. If this area has seen rain recently, especially a heavy rain, expect to have some runoff, particularly the vertical wall right of Psycho Wrangler.  Many of the routes stay wet for a couple days on this wall after a heavy rain.

Getting There

From Fayetteville, drive north on 16 for 7 miles until you hit a bridge that crosses over the New River, just below the Hawk's Nest Dam. The parking is immediately on the right after crossing the bridge. Follow the trail behind the parking area (go right at the first Y) to the top of the hill along a short but steep trail.

25 Total Climbs

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Location: Cotton Top Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cotton Top

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 13
We Got Problems
Boulder
V5 6C
 16
Johnny Chimpo
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 9
Incident
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Cotton Gin and Tonic
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Fingers
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 186
Cottonmouth
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
98% Cotton
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 125
Cottonhead
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 132
Q-tip
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 47
End of Innocence
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Cotton the Act
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 143
Psycho Wrangler
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Love Sock
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
Intergalactic Orcas
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
The Rheesist
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
We Got Problems
 13
V2 5+ Boulder
Johnny Chimpo
 16
V5 6C Boulder
Incident
 9
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Cotton Gin and Tonic
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Fingers
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cottonmouth
 186
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
98% Cotton
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cottonhead
 125
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Q-tip
 132
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
End of Innocence
 47
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cotton the Act
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Psycho Wrangler
 143
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Love Sock
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Intergalactic Orcas
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Rheesist
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cotton Top »

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