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Routes in South Peak - West Face

A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balless Boltchoppers, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mongoose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Description

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).

To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)

As of 2016, there are 2 additional descent options for the West Face: a set of anchors just north of the summit that rappel over Pleasant Overhangs, and a set of anchors north on the same ledge as the Conn's West rappel that descend over Westpole (double rope rappel!!).

The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)

Getting There

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).

83 Total Climbs

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Location: South Peak - West Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Peak - West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 118
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 198
Gunsight to South Peak
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 128
Conn's West
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 164
Ecstasy Junior
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 127
Le Gourmet
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 133
Critter Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 130
Front C
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 93
Thais
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 198
Green Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 161
Pleasant Overhangs
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 137
West Pole
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 83
Prune
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 147
The Burn
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 188
Triple S
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 93
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
 118
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak
 198
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Conn's West
 128
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Ecstasy Junior
 164
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Le Gourmet
 127
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
Critter Crack
 133
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Front C
 130
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Thais
 93
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Green Wall
 198
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pleasant Overhangs
 161
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
West Pole
 137
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Prune
 83
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Burn
 147
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Triple S
 188
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Marshall's Madness - Crack…
 93
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Peak - West Face »

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Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
There is a 3rd rap station down the west face. You MUST have TWO 60m ropes to do this rappel to the ground. From the summit blocks, located the anchors just down over the west face (they're right around where the routes Green Wall and Pleasant Overhangs top out). Rap from these down to another set of rap anchors above the large Pleasant Overhangs wall. Rap from this second set to the ground. You'll basically be rapping on the line of Arrested Mental Development. Nov 12, 2014
Where is "Alex in Wonderland" ? Nov 7, 2016
Josh Rymer
Arlington, VA
Josh Rymer   Arlington, VA
If you have two 70s you can rap all the way down the west face from the anchors on the summit blocks at the top of Green Wall. Jun 16, 2018

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