Elevation: 2,092 ft
GPS: 38.835, -79.367 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 188,189 total · 1,228/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Sep 19, 2006 with improvements by TAGG C and 2 others
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

Description

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. The tree is slung with heavy-duty ropes and rings. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a deciduous tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge on Old Man's first pitch with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)As of 2016, there are two additional descent options for the West Face, both of which require double 60m ropes: a set of anchors just north of the summit that rappel over Pleasant Overhangs (first rapp is single rope, second is double), and a set of anchors north on the same ledge as the Conn's West rappel that descend over Westpole (first rapp is double, second rapp is single).

Getting There

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).

83 Total Climbs

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Location: South Peak - West Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Peak - West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 204
Gunsight to South Peak
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 123
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 130
Conn's West
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 170
Ecstasy Junior
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 133
Le Gourmet
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 141
Critter Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 95
Thais
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 202
Green Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 166
Pleasant Overhangs
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 145
West Pole
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 86
Prune
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 156
The Burn
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
Tomato
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 196
Triple S
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 99
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gunsight to South Peak
 204
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
 123
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Conn's West
 130
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Ecstasy Junior
 170
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Le Gourmet
 133
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
Critter Crack
 141
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Thais
 95
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Green Wall
 202
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pleasant Overhangs
 166
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
West Pole
 145
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Prune
 86
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Burn
 156
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Tomato
 75
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Triple S
 196
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Marshall's Madness - Crack…
 99
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Peak - West Face »

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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
There is a 3rd rap station down the west face. You MUST have TWO 60m ropes to do this rappel to the ground. From the summit blocks, located the anchors just down over the west face (they're right around where the routes Green Wall and Pleasant Overhangs top out). Rap from these down to another set of rap anchors above the large Pleasant Overhangs wall. Rap from this second set to the ground. You'll basically be rapping on the line of Arrested Mental Development. Nov 12, 2014
Where is "Alex in Wonderland" ? Nov 7, 2016
Josh Rymer
Arlington, VA
Josh Rymer   Arlington, VA
If you have two 70s you can rap all the way down the west face from the anchors on the summit blocks at the top of Green Wall. Jun 16, 2018
Alex Fischer
Amherst, MA
Alex Fischer   Amherst, MA
Like Josh said, you'll make it to the ground with 2 70's from the chains at the top of Green Wall/Pleasant Overhangs, but just barely-tie knots in the end of your ropes! Mar 22, 2019
Conway Yao
Washington, District of Col…
Conway Yao   Washington, District of Col…
My notes on the four rappel routes:
1. Traffic Jam (3 rapps w/60m rope). [R1]: bolts at a rocky block at top of Traffic Jam notch. Rapp to flat ledge w/bolts at the very southern end of the Old Man's traverse ledge, where it meets the left-facing corner of the Snake Wall. [R2]: rapp slightly south (climber's right) to the right edge of a ledge halfway down w/bolts. [R3]: rapp to the base and walk north to the blue trail at the bottom of Le Gourmet.

2. Conn's West (3 rapps w/60m). [R1]: from the notch on the summit ridge, downclimb about 8 feet to access a small ledge with a large tree at top of Conn's West. Consider belaying the downclimb. Use the heavy-duty ropes and rapp rings around the tree as your rapp anchor. Rapp and angle south (climber's right) about 15 feet to a deciduous tree near the north-facing corner. Bolts are just north (climber's left) of the tree. [R2]: rapp and angle heavily north (climber's left) to the large ledge halfway up Old Man's first pitch. Then walk 20 feet (either still on rappel, or off) to the tree at the north end of the ledge, at the base of Westpole. Bolts on the wall behind the tree. [R3]: rapp to base of Old Man's, or 5.1 downclimb.

3. Conn's West (2 rapps w/two joined 60m ropes). [R1]: Access ledge w/8 ft downclimb, but use the bolts 10 feet north (climber's left) of the tree. Double-rope rappel straight to the ledge+tree of Old Man's first pitch. Again, angle north on the rappel, or walk 10 feet to the bolts. [R2]: single rope rapp to base of Old Man's or 5.1 downclimb.

4. Pleasant Overhangs / Green Wall (2 rapps w/two joined 60m ropes). [R1]: from South Summit, walk north just a few yards to the bolts. Have to downclimb about 5 feet and step across a gap to access the block w/the bolts. Not much space for more than one person at the bolts. Short single-rope rapp to a small ledge that is ~10 feet climber's left of the large pine tree near the top of the Pleasant Overhangs wall. Bolts are just below a wall with some bright green lichen. [R2]: join your ropes and rapp all the way to the base of Pleasant Overhangs. Rapp quickly past, or push out from, the lip of the P.O. roof! After you pass the roof, it's a free-hanging rapp the rest of the way. Awesome! Apr 8, 2019