Description

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).

To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)

As of 2016, there are 2 additional descent options for the West Face: a set of anchors just north of the summit that rappel over Pleasant Overhangs, and a set of anchors north on the same ledge as the Conn's West rappel that descend over Westpole (double rope rappel!!).

The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)

Getting There

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).

82 Total Climbs

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Location: South Peak - West Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Peak - West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 171
Old Man's Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 201
Gunsight to South Peak
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 121
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 130
Conn's West
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 165
Ecstasy Junior
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 127
Le Gourmet
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 134
Critter Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 93
Thais
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 199
Green Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 163
Pleasant Overhangs
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 141
West Pole
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 84
Prune
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 150
The Burn
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 192
Triple S
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 95
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old Man's Route
 171
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad 3 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak
 201
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
 121
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Conn's West
 130
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Ecstasy Junior
 165
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Le Gourmet
 127
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
Critter Crack
 134
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Thais
 93
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Green Wall
 199
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pleasant Overhangs
 163
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
West Pole
 141
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Prune
 84
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Burn
 150
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Triple S
 192
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Marshall's Madness - Crack…
 95
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Peak - West Face »

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Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
There is a 3rd rap station down the west face. You MUST have TWO 60m ropes to do this rappel to the ground. From the summit blocks, located the anchors just down over the west face (they're right around where the routes Green Wall and Pleasant Overhangs top out). Rap from these down to another set of rap anchors above the large Pleasant Overhangs wall. Rap from this second set to the ground. You'll basically be rapping on the line of Arrested Mental Development. Nov 12, 2014
Where is "Alex in Wonderland" ? Nov 7, 2016
Josh Rymer
Arlington, VA
Josh Rymer   Arlington, VA
If you have two 70s you can rap all the way down the west face from the anchors on the summit blocks at the top of Green Wall. Jun 16, 2018