Elevation: 2,092 ft
GPS: 38.83453, -79.36677
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Shared By: Mark Cushman on Sep 19, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Andy Weinmann

Description

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. The tree is slung with heavy-duty ropes and rings. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a deciduous tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge on Old Man's first pitch with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)As of 2016, there are two additional descent options for the West Face, both of which require double 60m ropes: a set of anchors just north of the summit that rappel over Pleasant Overhangs (first rapp is single rope, second is double), and a set of anchors north on the same ledge as the Conn's West rappel that descend over Westpole (first rapp is double, second rapp is single).

Getting There

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the trail over the steel bridge to a T-intersection.  Turn left and cross a wooden bridge.  Head up the hill and turn left onto Roy Gap Road.  From the parking lot below the Visitor's Center, walk the road to the low-water bridge.  Continue up Roy Gap Road.  Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca.  There is a new signpost here. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. The Southwest Corner area is from where the toe of the buttress comes down by the wooden steps all the way up to the old Hemlock Grove at the top of the Stairmaster Trail.   At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the Stairmaster Trail up, up and up to the old Hemlock Grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).  There are new signs along the trail pointing out many of these areas.

106 Total Climbs

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Location: South Peak - West Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Peak - West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 198
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 304
Gunsight to South Peak
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 174
Conn's West
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 260
Ecstasy Junior
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 214
Critter Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 274
Green Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 249
Pleasant Overhangs
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 130
Prune
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 217
West Pole
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 85
Traffic Jam
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 205
The Burn
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
Tomato
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 254
Triple S
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 86
Marshall's Madness
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 131
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gunsight to South Peak Direct S Peak W Face (Main A…
 198
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak S Peak W Face (Main A…
 304
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Conn's West S Peak W Face (Main A…
 174
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Ecstasy Junior Southwest Corner
 260
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Critter Crack S Peak W Face (Main A…
 214
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Green Wall S Peak W Face (Main A…
 274
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pleasant Overhangs S Peak W Face (Main A…
 249
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Prune S Peak W Face (Main A…
 130
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
West Pole S Peak W Face (Main A…
 217
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Traffic Jam S Peak W Face (Main A…
 85
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Burn Southwest Corner
 205
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Tomato S Peak W Face (Main A…
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Triple S S Peak W Face (Main A…
 254
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Marshall's Madness S Peak W Face (Main A…
 86
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Marshall's Madness - Crack… S Peak W Face (Main A…
 131
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Peak - West Face »

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