Elevation: 2,092 ft
GPS: 38.835, -79.367 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 256,128 total · 1,523/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Sep 19, 2006 with improvements by Tagg C and 2 others
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

Description

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. The tree is slung with heavy-duty ropes and rings. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a deciduous tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge on Old Man's first pitch with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)As of 2016, there are two additional descent options for the West Face, both of which require double 60m ropes: a set of anchors just north of the summit that rappel over Pleasant Overhangs (first rapp is single rope, second is double), and a set of anchors north on the same ledge as the Conn's West rappel that descend over Westpole (first rapp is double, second rapp is single).

Getting There

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).

85 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Peak - West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 232
Gunsight to South Peak
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 143
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 149
Conn's West
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 197
Ecstasy Junior
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 162
Critter Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 222
Green Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 191
Pleasant Overhangs
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 89
Neck Press
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 170
West Pole
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 102
Prune
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 177
The Burn
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 85
Tomato
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 216
Triple S
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Marshall's Madness
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 110
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gunsight to South Peak
 232
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
 143
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Conn's West
 149
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Ecstasy Junior
 197
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Critter Crack
 162
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Green Wall
 222
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pleasant Overhangs
 191
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Neck Press
 89
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
West Pole
 170
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Prune
 102
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Burn
 177
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Tomato
 85
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Triple S
 216
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Marshall's Madness
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Marshall's Madness - Crack…
 110
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
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