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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Vera & Stephens
Page Views: 7,835 total, 59/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Bring on the Nubiles is an awesomely exposed arete climb. It is best approached via the first pitch of West Pole, but it does have it's own first pitch which is quite run out.

P1: For this pitch begin just left of the tree at the start of West Pole and head up just right of the arete to a belay stance.

P2: Get ready! Climb straight up on thin cracks to a stance on a pedestal. From here reach up to a good horizontal and wander up near the arete to the top. Gear is sporadic - take what you can get and savor the exposure!

Protection

Standard rack. Emphasis on finger-size cams.

Photos

Awesome route, Currently (2016) a fixed offset nut right before the crux. We tried to get it out but that baby is in there. Fall would be clean. GET ON THIS THING! never know when that whole flake is going to fall over. Nov 4, 2016
Jeff McLeod
  5.9+ PG13
Jeff McLeod  
  5.9+ PG13
Detailed gear beta ahead.

Second pitch of this route is about as good as any exposed face climb I've done anywhere. It is also most definitely PG13. A fall during the crux hand traverse would be dangerous, especially if the microcam you hopefully placed in the tips crack blows, because there is a small outcropping/ledge not too far below that you could hit. Aug 30, 2015
Josh Janes    
 
Bad route descriptions? NIMBY! :) Jul 9, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+ PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+ PG13
Get off my lawn! ;-) Jul 9, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
I'm sure you're all good guys and good climbers. It's easy to misconstrue typed text and meaning/motivation behind it. Can't really find fault with anyone that wants accurate route info. Josh, thanks for posting it up in the first place. I'd be happy to knock a few back on Tom's deck with any of you any day. Jul 1, 2015
Josh Janes    
 
"First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh."

Ugh? Ugh: Typical east coast squabbling. I guess when you only have a tiny bit of scrappy rock to play on you feel a compulsion to argue about a 5' variation to the first pitch (and it's the approach pitch!) of a two pitch 5.9. Hey, I can't really fault you. But nice job giving the blow-by-blow description Andy - apologies if my submission was misleading or not detailed enough for your taste. Sounds like you still managed to have fun on the route. Jun 30, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+ PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+ PG13
Jake,

Thanks very much for backing me up as I did indeed type "submitter". My comments were specifically designed to not discourage people from giving pitch one a "go" as it was originally climbed. My usual style is to first climb routes as they were originally done and then go back later to do other variations and link ups...it's more pure that way in my opinion.

Kevin, I don't know you from anyone else, but I encourage you to read comments a little more closely next time.

If you like, either of you can ask around for me at the Gendarme or Tom's some weekend and we'll throw back a few brews.

-Andy Jun 30, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
Kevin,

Andy didn't say "summiteers" he said "submitter". The submitter is Josh Janes, not you and the others in the first ascent party. Please read his comment again. I don't know Andy personally, but he has always seemed to be a reasonable guy, and has great reverence and respect for the areas he climbs in and the FAists that put up bold routes like this one. Jun 26, 2015
I must take exception to the comment left by Andy Weinmann of Alexandria, who stated with some conviction the the original summiteers of "bring on the Nubiles" did not do the first pitch. As one of those first ascentionists, I can assure Mr. Weinmann that we did indeed climb both pitches on the first ascent of the route. The first pitch was flawlessly lead by my partner Hernado Vera on that fall day in 1985. I would suggest that Mr. Weinmann would do well to have some knowledge about his subject matter. Jun 25, 2015
Mark Maier
  5.9+
Mark Maier  
  5.9+
I think the first pitch is quite good, and would be better if it was climbed enough to clear off the lichen. It's not a really serious problem, but less lichen would be nicer.

I don't see this route as PG13. It's not trivial to protect. Small cams, probably offsets like Andy says, are necessary to avoid some runouts. The stances are not always great. But, with the right gear and reasonable ability to place it I don't see there being much danger.

And it is really in a spectacular spot with a great variety of climbing. Face moves, finger locks, even the occasional hand jam. Oct 26, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+ PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+ PG13
I have to disagree with the other commenters on this climb on a couple points. First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh.

P1: From the two-bolt anchor shared with West Pole, move up the corner/arete, passing some good stances and decent gear placements. Move right and continue past some suspect rock to eventually gain better cracks that lead up to the small inverted V overhang. Pull the overhang on the left and continue up to the Thais Escape Ledge (#2 or #3 cam helpful for belay).

There's not as much loose rock as you might think on P1(thanks for the mark on the block Kirby!) and it's not that runout if you place some small gear/offset cams.

The final pitch is spectacular. I don't know why Tess thinks this was more runout...you could probably aid this pitch. A #2 cam is really handy above the pedestal. Doubles of finger-size cams helpful too.

All-in-all this is a 4-star route. Stellar positioning, great exposure and fun, strenuous-at-times moves on a beautiful steep face. This epitomizes Seneca climbing at it's best. Oct 7, 2013
Kirby
DC
 
Kirby   DC
 
Great route. There is a giant death block on the first pitch, which is one of the few chunks of that pitch that isn't covered in lichen. I drew a bunch of x's on it. Don't pull it out, because it would probably kill your belayer, then anyone else waiting for old man's route 200 feet below.

The last pitch is so very nice. Crux is much easier if you are tall.

Would be 4 stars if not for the dirtiness of the first pitch (first being 80 feet off the ground) Aug 19, 2013
t.ferguson  
 
I found this climb to be well worth it. We did the first pitch which was extremely fun climbing, though covered in lichens and very uneasy (lots of loose rock and bad placements). The second pitch was stellar as well - better quality rock but more run out. Overall would highly recommend. Give this route some love! It deserves it. Jun 11, 2012