Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dan Miller
Page Views: 7,213 total · 53/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

This is one on the nicest face climbs at Seneca in my opinion. Great moves, good gear, and great position and tops out on a very thin and exposed flake. The crux is right around the first bolt, then fun face moves all the way to the top with an exciting finish.

Location

Start at the highest point on the Old Man's Traverse Ledge, just right of a right facing corner(15ft high with wide crack). Easiest descent is via a small rappel tree in the gully behind the large flake about 30 Ft. below the top out. Rappel or scramble down to shuts on Conn's West.

Protection

2 bolts, 2 pins, standard Seneca rack. A larger microstopper is nice for the last move, but somewhat hard to place. Gear is plentiful for most of the route. This will likely become more popular since the R rating has been dropped in the new guidebook (it's definitely not R rated, especially for Seneca).

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Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Way underrated, go climb it!! Mar 1, 2009
Ben Annibali
Palmyra, Pennsylvania
 
Ben Annibali   Palmyra, Pennsylvania
 
This is an amazing climb with funky holds!! Its awesome Feb 25, 2010
kzoo
michigan
 
kzoo   michigan
 
An unbelievable climb! The crux for me was definitely at the first bolt. Be careful placing a nut in the last crack - I grabbed the top of the flake and looked down to see my nut had wiggled loose. It would have been a long ride!! That crack tends to spit out pro. Apr 7, 2010
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
I feel like this has two distinct cruxes. 1.)at the first bolt and 2.) the very top section finger crack. The top one sneaks up on you cuz the climbing below has eased off a bit in the last 15+ ft. Wouldn't wanna fall there...that ledge is potentially ankle breaking if you blow it.

I usually descend from that top area by belaying my 2nd down the chimney that faces the top of the Critter Cracks area. I then just down-solo the easy chimney (prob 5.2/3). There's also a large block lodged in the top of the chimney that you can sling and rap from if you wanna leave some tat behind.

Sweet route though. Great exposure and very airy! Jul 15, 2012