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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 16,576 total, 125/month
Shared By: Brian Adzima on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Shipley's Shivering Shimmy is the original name. Perhaps the name was a tad to long to stick. Triple S is one of the best routes at Seneca. Stem, stem, and stem some more until your left leg is completely exhausted; hopefully you'll have reached a rest by then.

Oh yeah; it's sandbagged, even for Seneca.

Location

Triple S is the large corner where the Wall of a Thousand Pitons connects with the west face. One can rap from the top or continue up several other routes.

Protection

More Cowbell!!! Passive gear (fist size or so in hexes) seems to be the preferred gear for this route. Seriously.
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
I have nothing to say that hasn't already been said about the first pitch. The second pitch is a stark contrast-- loose and a bit awkward, but certainly easier. Follow the line straight up and it spits you out right near Traffic Jam notch. Jun 23, 2017
John Burkhart
Morgantown, WV
 
John Burkhart   Morgantown, WV
 
Climbed this yesterday onsight. What a fantastic route! It never lets up, there are some decent stances but they are strenuous. This route does not test your finger strength but it does test your perseverance and foot strength. Good gear. I clipped a fixed nut (looked very recent)- my partner wasn't able to clean it but we were getting cooked in the sun. If someone gets a chance give cleaning that nut a shot and it should be able to be removed. Sep 26, 2016
Jonathan Neville
Red River Gorge
Jonathan Neville   Red River Gorge
Does anyone know of any good routes that lead to the proper summit from the top of Triple S? Apr 5, 2016
Awesome route! There are lots of opportunities for chimney moves, and they provide good rests. I mostly placed small to medium cams, nothing larger than a #3 C4.

There was an accident on this climb in 2001. publications.americanalpine…

A climber fell and caught his foot on a chockstone. That seems like a hazard on blocky corner climbs like Triple S. Be careful! Sep 8, 2015
Emil Briggs
  5.8
Emil Briggs  
  5.8
I loved the route and while it wasn't a gimme I didn't think it was particularly sandbagged. As long as you have decent stem technique that is. If you don't it's going to feel really hard. Nov 12, 2013
BrianWS
  5.8+
BrianWS  
  5.8+
Nothing on this climb is harder than 5.8... but not much on it is any easier than 5.8, either. Very sustained. Sep 9, 2013
Dan Mathews  
5.9-
Love this climb. Stemming and even some chimney moves for rests are the key. Solid protection is everywhere, so don't let it scare you off. Some thinly protected Seneca 5.7s are more intimidating than this. It doesn't get much better. Oct 24, 2012
I led this, again, on my 56th birthday. It seems to get harder every year, as the rock is just getting more and more polished. You can place gear everywhere, though; and, what a great belay stance at the top!! Sep 6, 2012
So much stemming that my feet were shaking! Chimney and stemming and pushing! yeah! May 13, 2012
It's been a while... The Gendarme was still standing when I did this route! I have now climbed all over the country, Josh, Yosemite, Red Rocks, the list goes on. But Triple S is still THE route, best classic route I have ever climbed, don't miss it! Back when I climbed it it was a 5.7. Dang that was a hard 7! Apr 15, 2011
Befta Efta
Golden, CO
  5.9+
Befta Efta   Golden, CO
  5.9+
Good climb. New to trad, so it was a hard climb for me. It sucks in the gear though. I used 7 or 8 nuts and only 2 cams.

Consistent too, no real break in the climbing. Oct 28, 2010
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I had no idea quartzite could get this polished. Oct 19, 2010
oldbull
Laguna Beach, CA
oldbull   Laguna Beach, CA
Ahh...fond memories of this climb. Absolutely stellar!!! Not friendly for those with bad technique, but certainly a gift that keeps on giving. Your calves will be scorching by the time you hit the top. Lots of gear. After climbing another 10+ years, it does strike me that sandbag may be a good description of this climb. I can't think of too many 8's that are more consistent or harder. Jul 14, 2009
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
This is the most sustained pitch of 5.8 climbing I have ever done. It's like the forces of Nature collaborated to create this especially for climbers. Really amazing. Jun 1, 2009
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.9
dinglestyle   Catonsville, MD
  5.9
Easy 5.9 rating when compared to other climbs in the area like Tomato, The Burn and Alcoa. In my experience as a climber whenever I see a plus symbol it means sandbag rating Especially any east coast route that was established pre 5.10 era. This is classic Seneca at itÂ’s best still, a test piece in the mind of many weekend warriors. Feb 20, 2009
Joe Dietrick  
 
Super route. Crack and face climb that will get your blood going. Feb 6, 2009
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
 
No question, this is a Seneca classic. Jul 21, 2008
Ladd

  5.8+
Ladd    
  5.8+
60 feet huh? Must have not placed from the crux to the anchors then fell, wow. Dec 26, 2007
First real big fall I ever took. Probably in early eighties fell about sixty feet. Dec 26, 2007
Rick M
Annapolis, Maryland
 
Rick M   Annapolis, Maryland
 
it's worthy of 4 stars and a tough lead for the grade Jul 19, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
It's all about stemming. Seems very reasonable within the grade if you stem it. Also, I like the climbing, but it's not a 4-star at Seneca -- too short. Jan 19, 2007