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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,691 total, 61/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Jul 29, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

This excellent climb ascends the corner just left of Conn's West. It starts in the center of the wall and eventually traverses left into the top of the corner.

P1: climb up the center of this face with no particular line. Aim for base of an obvious chimney. 80', 5.5.

P2: Climb the suprisingly enjoyable chimney. Where it pinches off, step left and continue up the same crack system to a belay alcove. 80', 5.6.

P3: This is the business. I suppose this is a Seneca 5.6 but it had me a lot more gripped than many harder routes. Traverse left on the steep face to the big corner and climb up to a belay above the difficulties. There's plenty of pro but hanging out on the steep face to put it in was definitely exciting. The hardest part for me was finding the easiest line - there's chalk all over the place. I wound up going straight left from the fixed pin above the belay to the corner, ignoring the temptation to climb up prematurely. 50', Seneca 5.6.

P4: up to an obvious weakness, left along the ledge and then up through a tree to the top. 100', 5.4.

Location

Start at the center of the face just left of Conn's West.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack

Photos

2 60 meter ropes get you to the ground with 2 rappels (1 short, second long) Jul 17, 2017
craigerv
Burlington, VT
 
craigerv   Burlington, VT
 
The Horst guidebook says to belay on the sloping ledge on the outside of the corner at the top of pitch 3. I believe this is where you can escape to the top of Westpole. For pitch 4 it says to climb back to the inside corner but I did find climbing back around the corner to be a real challenge. Felt like a 5.9 sort of layback while doing the splits to get back into the corner from the sloping ledge. I'd recommend staying in the corner and belaying from a ledge a little higher up than the escape. May 2, 2016
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.6
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.6
As of 8/14/15, there was a completely loose piece of rock about 2'x2'x8" on P3, after coming out of the main corner, 15" before the pine tree with a green bird house on it. There were climbers at the base of Thais, so I did not pull it off the wall. Aug 17, 2015
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
starting from the bottom of the chimney you can probably make it to the westpole anchor in one pitch with a 70m rope by taking the escape at the top of pitch 3. When I did the route, I didn't know where I was going so I built an anchor on the sloping ledge at the beginning of the escape (little did I know I was about 30 feet from the top). It would be close, but my follower seemed pretty sure it would go. Mar 15, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Full value 5.6, for sure. Great variety on this climb. I ran the 3rd pitch to the gully just below the summit for a ~120' pitch and that worked out fine for me. Rope drag was a little bit of an issue, but not too bad. As Mike mentions, the rock quality takes a decided turn toward chossy for the last 20' or so before the summit gully, but the climbing also dials backs to 5.easy and you can work left to better rock. Aug 11, 2014
Jeff Klassen
Eppstein, DE
 
Jeff Klassen   Eppstein, DE
 
The chimney variation was a blast for P2. Would recommend. Oct 7, 2013
BigRed11    
 
The second pitch is fantastic and very fun. Be aware that if you choose to do the escape, the final belay ledge is too far around the corner from the belay at the top of pitch 2 to communicate by voice. Jun 10, 2013
Mike Phillips
Pittsburgh
  5.7
Mike Phillips   Pittsburgh
  5.7
From the belay ledge at the top of P2, you can make it to the gully between the summit and the big flake of the west face in one pitch. I tried this because following the route to the left and into the gully seemed awkward. The rock quality just continues to get worse the higher you go if you go straight up however and, because of this, I would not recommend this. Next time I'll probably try the established escape variation to the climber's right. Aug 27, 2011
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
On P3 you can escape right around the corner to end up on the ledge with the rappel tree and the end of Westpole. I've done the escape a few times to avoid climbing the gully to the summit. Oct 22, 2007