Casual In The Mind's Eye [Edit]
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in South Peak - West Face
The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c | |
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unsorted Routes: |
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Type: | Trad, 55 ft |
FA: | Prothro & Doyle, late 1970s/Weinmann & Baumgartner OCT 2011 |
Page Views: | 152 total · 2/month |
Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Oct 27, 2011 |
Admins: | Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Description [Edit]
P1: Climb the small crack to a good hold where the crack ends below the headwall. Traverse left about 6-8 feet to another small, thin crack behind a small maple tree. Climb the thin crack (crux) using finger locks and jams to the intersection with West Pole Direct Finish at the small roof and much wider crack. Finish on WPDF. 50-55 ft.
While it is a short line, it is good, hard fun and very airy up there. It's a little licheny down low, but the upper crack is brilliant and clean...harder than it looks. Overall it's very much a great way to finish off West Pole.
While it is a short line, it is good, hard fun and very airy up there. It's a little licheny down low, but the upper crack is brilliant and clean...harder than it looks. Overall it's very much a great way to finish off West Pole.
Location [Edit]
On the West Pole/Conn's West Ledge below the Summit Ledge.
Start at a finger-crack about 5 feet to the right of the two-bolt anchor atop P2 of West Pole or about 10 feet left of the West Pole/Conn's West rappel tree. The West Pole Direct Finish (WPDF) crack will be about 10-15 feet to the left of this spot.
To descend, scramble down the back side off the top and down to the Summit Ledge.
Start at a finger-crack about 5 feet to the right of the two-bolt anchor atop P2 of West Pole or about 10 feet left of the West Pole/Conn's West rappel tree. The West Pole Direct Finish (WPDF) crack will be about 10-15 feet to the left of this spot.
To descend, scramble down the back side off the top and down to the Summit Ledge.
Protection [Edit]
Take small cams down to #00 TCUs/Master Cams and small wires/micro nuts. A #4 BD Cam or equivalent is helpful for the brief wide section at the top of WPDF. You can sling one of the large blocks on the top of the formation for your belay anchor.
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