Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,020 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brian Adzima on Feb 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Climb to the right of the pine tree. From here on look for the easiest climbing. Near the top work to the arĂȘte at left and move on to the west facing wall. Over 100 ft. Despite the name this route wanders back and forth across the south facing wall beside the traffic jam rappel. It feels like 5.8 climbing.

Location

Located below the Traffic Jam rappel. Start at the west side of the south facing wall.

Protection

There are at least 4 decrepit pitons (2004), clip at your on risk.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
Be very careful on this route. There are some rather large loose blocks (more or less on the center line/left of center) that will eventually go and the base of Traffic Jam/Neck Press rappel is right there. Sketchy! Aug 1, 2011
BredStache
  5.7
BredStache  
  5.7
There is a fair amount of loose rock on this route, even by Seneca standards. The best line is tricky to find and wanders across the right-facing corner. It DOES make the first two pitches of Le Gourmet into one pitch, but this is unlikely to save you much time.

Overall, it's somewhere between OK and Good. I wouldn't go out of my way to do it, but if you've exhausted the 5.6ish routes at Seneca, it's not a bad route to push your route-finding skills.

Photo credit: RESLScience 2012
Apr 23, 2013
I would say that while this is a good-to-very-good pitch, it is absolutely NOT a 5.6. So if you're looking for, say, a 5.7 challenge, get on it. The gear is decent, if varied and challenging at times. (I was working hard to sew it up but my second said everything was bomber) The climbing was "thoughtful", and that's good for the lead head once in a while I suppose. Bottom line - I'm really glad I did it.

Calling this a 5.6 helps substantiate Seneca's rep for sandbag grading. My home crag is the Gunks, so that's saying something!

I didn't know what to make of the comment in the guidebook about going right of the first tree etc. What WAS very helpful was the bit about getting into the short chimney high up in the pitch; I wasn't clear on which way to go at that point. May 18, 2015
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.7+
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.7+
I also found the route finding and movement to be thought provoking and challenging. Instead of going left around the arĂȘte to rejoin Le Gourmet, I traversed back right into the big corner and stopped at the end of pitch 2 of Neck Press (the double anchors by the dead tree). I'm sure others have done this long linkup, but I'm not aware it's been named. Maybe "Neck Gourmet"? May 1, 2017
Josh Rymer
Arlington, VA
 
Josh Rymer   Arlington, VA
 
As many have pointed out, still lots of loose stuff on this route, double check before committing to a hold. Aug 25, 2018
Chad Silva
  5.7
Chad Silva  
  5.7
When in doubt, stay right. There are two trees you can see from the bottom - you'll want to end between them. I accidentally wandered left to the corner near the end, and was rewarded with ungodly rope drag at the top - as well as needing to move some 20ft across Old Man's Traverse ledge to reach the bolts while being mostly unprotected (and absolutely hauling rope).

From the bottom (older) bolts, it's possible to do a single 70m rap down to a walk-off-able ledge about 15ft above the trail, but I do NOT recommend. The rope almost always gets caught when you pull it. Instead, use the intermediate rappel station - no chance of rope getting caught, and then you'll get to the ground comfortably. Nov 5, 2018