Type: Trad, 155 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Evans, Matt Hale 1969
Page Views: 4,605 total · 34/month
Shared By: Jon St John on Nov 23, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


71 Opinions

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Description

This fun little route starts with a short flake/left-facing corner to a belay ledge. From the belay ledge, head up a left-facing corning through increasingly challenging moves until it merges with Gunsight to South Peak, a 5.3 ramp that heads to the summit. Gunsight to South Peak can get kind of crowded.

Location

This route is just left of the start for the popular Green Wall. There are a number of descent options from the summit, the most popular being the traffic jam chimney (named so for a reason!).

Protection

Bring a standard rack. You'll have to set up a gear belay at the end of the first pitch, and (if I remember right) at the top. Lots of great pro placements throughout this route.

Photos

Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Great route. Good for a first 5.8, plenty of stances and opportunities for gear. Mar 1, 2009
Such a great line. P1 is pretty cruiser; lieback the flake and then belay from the left facing corner on the ledge.

P2 is fantastically exposed. The crux is definitely pumpy and doesn't have the greatest rest stances, unlike the rest of the route.

Finish up Gunsight to South Peak. Either build a belay on half way up the GSP section or go to the top and use the high test anchor on the East Face. Communication may be less than desirable if you belay from High Test. Oct 10, 2013
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.7+
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.7+
I second K Baumgartner's suggestion above to build a gear anchor half way up pitch 2, just above the crux, where the route meets Gunsight to South Peak and the climbing eases off noticeably. This improves communication and allows the leader to keep an eye on the follower. May 1, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Very nice fun line with a cool first pitch and good 2nd pitch with gear options everywhere. Honestly though, I kept waiting for the 5.8 section. Hardest part was stepping up into Gunsight to SP and traversing down so we could get into the Gunsight. If you can handjam, you'll cruise this. And if we're saying this is 5.8, then Traffic Jam and Neck Press are as well. Jul 17, 2017
Hyland Markle
Morgantown, WV
Hyland Markle   Morgantown, WV
Super awesome route! The crux for me was transitioning from Tomato to the gunsight notch. Some sustained moves to a powerful pull and wham bam, you're in 5.easy! Jun 12, 2018
Brad Leneis
  5.8
Brad Leneis  
  5.8
The second pitch is one of Seneca's finest. Oct 2, 2018