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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 285 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Larry Griffin 1965
Page Views: 8,184 total, 88/month
Shared By: vfv on Apr 13, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Climb ramp up and left to the right facing corner and continue up the corner to a ledge. There are bolts just to the left on the ledge below Front C. (70 ft)

Pitch 2:Traverse RIGHT (diagonally up) to an arete and climb the arete up to Old Man's Traverse Ledge. (100 ft, pg-13)

Pitch 3: From the southern end of Old Man's Traverse Ledge climb up to the left side of the Critter Wall to a flake below southern facing chimneys (beginning of Critter Crack).

Pitch 4: Climb the right most chimney to the spectacular top (85ft)

Location

Begin just to climber's left of where the upper West Face Trail meets the rock (left of Traffic Jam Rappel) at a ramp which leads left to a prominent right facing corner.

Protection

At the top, look east directly behind you to a chimney which leads down to the summit ledge. The chockstone at the top is slung with a rap ring. Step down into the chimney and then rap or lower or downclimb through this chimney (40 ft) to the east facing summit ledge.
No normal anchor on last pitch and rope drag is crazy if you will go into the chimney. Jul 17, 2017
repka  
The rappel off the top slings is tricky because you have to turn around the corner between two chimneys. While you rap, be ready to carry the bulk of the rope and make sure not to drop it until you're past the rocks choked in both of these chimneys. Do not tie the ends, otherwise if you accidentally lose them, they might get stuck. Once you're down, be sure to move away, closer to the exit from from the last chimney so when you pull the rope it doesn't get stuck.

In other words, I should look into practicing some down-climbing a bit. Jul 4, 2017
Duff Duff  
 
Awesome time! Front C definitely best way to go. Above description is pretty spot on. To get down we rapped the chimney to east side then had last person grab rope and downclimb chimney. Walking north you can tag the summit as them come back to notch facing west. A short downclimb to the Conn's West Rappel tree with a sling and rap rings. One 70m JUST made it to ledge 80' off ground and short walk north to 2nd rappel rings (there's a rappel station in between but we didn't see it). Good to know a way off if just have a 70m in case! Jul 9, 2016
A nice starting climb at Seneca. There is now two stuck cams on the first pitch. (none of them are mine) We opted not to do the second pitch as the protection is really sparse and the guide book agrees and mentions it. We did Front C 5.6 instead for the second pitch which was excellent and very fun! You should know that you are expected to scramble between the second and third pitch heading upward to the right and then when you get into a recessed notch, upward to the left behind a large wide flake and all the way to the very left side of the critter wall underneath the chimneys. I didn't know this and lead it making the whole climb more time consuming.

Also be advised that the guide book says nothing about what the anchor/belay station is at the top and where to go. If you stay somewhat in the chimney or just outside of it, you'll veer to the left a bit as you follow it and when you top out you'll see to the left a medium sized boulder at the top of and between two large section of flakes, like a two foot wide channel. That's the anchor. I choose not to use it as the anchor looked sketchy with carabiners that are triaxially loaded. I would have had to leave gear behind as you need a permanent anchor to rappel down that channel to get to the summit ledge.

I should have checked here to double check against the guide book, as I thought the boulder was someone's bail gear and climbed higher until I realized there was nothing and had to down climb and remove my protection as I went. I should have gone with my own intuition going straight up a short crack near the top as the chimneys veer left. It brings you into a large notch in the wall where you can create your anchor and top belay. Then it's a short scramble down the other side to the summit ledge. That's a much better way of doing the route, although there is a crux right near the notch that is probably 5.6 or 5.7. You can see this notch in the top right of Davis13au picture titled "Mike leading the blocky last pitch of Le Gourmet". You can also see a top down picture from the notch in BrendanCathcart's picture titled "Eric following the last pitch. Fun mix of chimney and crack." Both pictures show you how the chimneys veer left and a short crack goes straight up to the notch.

The loose rock is still there that Davis13au mentioned. Jun 7, 2016
Davis13au  
 
There is a loose basketball sized block on the last pitch about 20 feet from the top out on the flake. It's on the interior flake or the flake just to the left of the main right hand wall. From below it looks like a nice big horn on top of the flake. It moved quite easily when I grabbed it. I moved around it and tested it from above and it seems pretty free. If it released it would be bad news for anyone below, on critter crack, Old Man's ledge and countless routes below. I know not many people climb the last pitch of Le Gourmet (It's actually pretty fun, a great intro to trad lead and has a great top out) so it may not get a lot of hands on it. It might need to be trundled in a controlled manor unless it's somehow locked into that spot. May 23, 2016
ColeT Musial
Cincinnati, OH
 
ColeT Musial   Cincinnati, OH
 
I agree with andrew, much more fun this way. Also pitch 3 confused me and outs kinda a joke Jul 26, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.4
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.4
It seems like most parties skip the 2nd pitch in favor of Front C and the 4th pitch in favor of Critter Crack. Can't recommend both alternates (5.6) enough! Apr 20, 2015
Some poor soul had to ditch a nice #2 omega link cam on pitch 1. I tried to work it out for about 15 minutes with no luck. Go get it! Dec 28, 2014