Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marshall's Madness: Marshall, Christian, & Kauffman - 1955Crack of Dawn: McLaughlin & Janoscrat - 1980
Page Views: 14,652 total · 100/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


96 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

While Marshall's Madness and Crack of Dawn are two separate routes, by far and away the most classic way to climb them is to link one into the other and that is how they are described here.

Begin near the arete left of Triple S.

P1: Climb steep rock to a belay stance (a short pitch).

P2: Continue up the cracks and step right to the overhang. Pull this overhang via a handcrack (steep, obvious from the ground) and continue to the top. Bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard rack.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
One of my favorite routes at Seneca. Take a few 3" cams for the superb jamming section. Jan 19, 2007
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Doing this in one long pitch is the way to go. Great climbing. Pumpy. Apr 4, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.10a
Kris Gorny    
  5.10a
The FFA of Marshalls Madness was done in 1955!? Wow! Hemp ropes around the chest, hiking boots, and iron pitons. Hats off! Oct 15, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10a
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10a
While these two climbs share the same start, Marshalls is a fun climb in its own right straight up from the belay. Both are classics! May 27, 2008
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Good amount of exposure up high on this one. Definately a Seneca classic, terrific line. May 21, 2009
BrianWS
  5.10a
BrianWS  
  5.10a
Wow. GREAT climb, especially as a linkup. One of the best cracks in WV for sure. Sep 9, 2013
A phenomenal, classic hand crack. While the slope is less vertical above the roof, it's nonetheless sustained.

A 60m rope gets you back to the belay ledge at P1. Sep 30, 2013
Kirby Crider
DC
 
Kirby Crider   DC
 
Really fun. If someone is climbing Triple S, ask them to take a photo of you from the top of that route. It would be magazine worthy.

I mostly just came here to say that a 70 meter barely gets you the the shelf about 5 feet up Triple S. Tie knots in your rope, but it will save the hassle of two rappels from the top of CoD. Apr 8, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
Awesome route that I finally got around to doing on a beautiful quiet Friday. It's a long route and drag will be noticeable towards the top. I used a DMM revolver biner on a draw below the roof which really helped. Also, a #4 C4 is very handy towards the top.

If you're toping out on this route from the anchors, be extremely careful of a couple large loose blocks right as you step up to the summit ledge. May 5, 2014
kck
kck  
Is the link up 10a or is the second pitch (Crack of Dawn) 10a by itself? MM is 5.9 and from the description it isn't clear if the second pitch is more difficult than 1st pitch of MM or just the overall length adds to the difficulty.

Also, what's the name of the finger crack to the left of MM at the very edge of the wall, but do not go around the arete? It shares the same anchors as MM. It is a 10d in the book but I don't remember the name. Jul 4, 2016
BrianWS
  5.10a
BrianWS  
  5.10a
The second pitch by itself is 10a, just a bit harder and more sustained than the 1st pitch. Jul 8, 2016
Kirby Crider
DC
 
Kirby Crider   DC
 
And to kck, the little finger crack to the left of Marshall’s is Mongoose, 10d I think. A nice top rope or a bold lead! Aug 12, 2018