Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: N.C. Hartz, Henry Schulter, Earl Richardson (1944)
Page Views: 15,168 total · 108/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Jun 14, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


130 Opinions

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Description

P1. Climb the obvious left-facing flake/dihedral from the top of the first pitch of Old Man's Route. P1 ends at a ledge with a sizable tree and rappel anchors. This first pitch involves a few chimney moves and it's possible to sling some chockstones for pro.

P2. Climb the right-facing corner up and over a few ledge systems to the rappel ledge for the west face. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue up through the notch to the summit ledges.

Location

Start by climbing the first pitch of Old Man's Route.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack.
Bill Hutchins
Bethesda, MD
  5.4
Bill Hutchins   Bethesda, MD
  5.4
The direct finish goes up a nice inside corner to the left off the second belay ledge. Very nice 5.5 climbing with several fun stemming moves. Oct 7, 2007
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.5
dinglestyle   Catonsville, MD
  5.5
Super loose flake on the right facing wall of the dihedral just below the ledge with the tree on it. Feb 20, 2009
George Privon
Gainesville, FL
 
George Privon   Gainesville, FL
 
I second the comment on the direct variation. It is a much more enjoyable pitch than the original finish. Jul 6, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.4
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.4
My first time at Seneca: after doing Simple J Malarky and not having much fun on it, getting lost on the way to do Green Wall, and saying "screw it, let's just get to the top before sun-down", I happened to be standing under this one which a very enjoyable cruise to the top. Usually I hate this low-level climbing because the falls almost always have ledge-fall potential. This is no different, except for the fact that falling is difficult to do! Even when I was 30 feet above my piece, I felt fine. I highly recommend this route! You could easily protect the whole thing with just nuts and hexes. Sep 14, 2010
The direct finish is great! May 12, 2011
D.Starry Yake
Pittsburgh, Pa
 
D.Starry Yake   Pittsburgh, Pa
 
Do the direct finish to make it a 5.5. super fun! Jun 28, 2011
Don MacKenzie
Seattle, WA
Don MacKenzie   Seattle, WA
I think this used to be 5.3 and the direct finish went at 5.4... those grades seemed more consistent by Seneca standards.

I highly recommend the direct finish.

P1 and P2 can easily be linked with 60m ropes. Try this with a 50 and your belayer will be simul-climbing the initial (very easy) moves.

There's also a direct variation down low that is worth doing. You climb a short, steep corner ("Stupid's Corner") immediately below the start of the chimney. It's probably 5.4 and you really only need to protect the exit move.

I recently did the 5.7 variation listed in the Barnes guide, which is about 10 feet to the right of the chimney pitch. it climbs the corner/chimney with 2 trees growing out of it near the base. Getting past the trees is a bit awkward but there's some good climbing above that makes it worthwhile. Apr 5, 2012
Mark Maier
  5.4
Mark Maier  
  5.4
We did the 5.7 variation (the corner with the two trees). It is where the comment says, just to the right of the chimney pitch. I can't say I recommend it. It is rather awkward, with considerable loose rock in the cracks. My second took a swing when a handhold broke off. Jun 16, 2013
Kathryn Ann Marsh
Cleveland, OH
 
Kathryn Ann Marsh   Cleveland, OH
 
Did the 5.7 variation (the one with the two trees), and really enjoyed it. Fun movement. Technical and spicy at times for a 5.7. Jun 15, 2014
adamsc
Cincinnati, OH
  5.4
adamsc   Cincinnati, OH
  5.4
Linked the route in one 70m pitch from the bottom of Old Man's on 7/16. You have to move the belay up to the base of the initial 5.0 moves to make it, and take the corner start and direct finish, but it's a stellar pitch of climbing. Jul 17, 2017