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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: N.C. Hartz, Henry Schulter, Earl Richardson (1944)
Page Views: 14,314 total · 111/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Jun 14, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

P1. Climb the obvious left-facing flake/dihedral from the top of the first pitch of Old Man's Route. P1 ends at a ledge with a sizable tree and rappel anchors. This first pitch involves a few chimney moves and it's possible to sling some chockstones for pro.

P2. Climb the right-facing corner up and over a few ledge systems to the rappel ledge for the west face. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue up through the notch to the summit ledges.

Location

Start by climbing the first pitch of Old Man's Route.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack.
adamsc
Cincinnati, OH
  5.4
adamsc   Cincinnati, OH
  5.4
Linked the route in one 70m pitch from the bottom of Old Man's on 7/16. You have to move the belay up to the base of the initial 5.0 moves to make it, and take the corner start and direct finish, but it's a stellar pitch of climbing. Jul 17, 2017
Kathryn Ann Marsh
Cleveland, OH
 
Kathryn Ann Marsh   Cleveland, OH
 
Did the 5.7 variation (the one with the two trees), and really enjoyed it. Fun movement. Technical and spicy at times for a 5.7. Jun 15, 2014
Mark Maier
  5.4
Mark Maier  
  5.4
We did the 5.7 variation (the corner with the two trees). It is where the comment says, just to the right of the chimney pitch. I can't say I recommend it. It is rather awkward, with considerable loose rock in the cracks. My second took a swing when a handhold broke off. Jun 16, 2013
Don MacKenzie
Seattle, WA
Don MacKenzie   Seattle, WA
I think this used to be 5.3 and the direct finish went at 5.4... those grades seemed more consistent by Seneca standards.

I highly recommend the direct finish.

P1 and P2 can easily be linked with 60m ropes. Try this with a 50 and your belayer will be simul-climbing the initial (very easy) moves.

There's also a direct variation down low that is worth doing. You climb a short, steep corner ("Stupid's Corner") immediately below the start of the chimney. It's probably 5.4 and you really only need to protect the exit move.

I recently did the 5.7 variation listed in the Barnes guide, which is about 10 feet to the right of the chimney pitch. it climbs the corner/chimney with 2 trees growing out of it near the base. Getting past the trees is a bit awkward but there's some good climbing above that makes it worthwhile. Apr 5, 2012
D.Starry Yake
Pittsburgh, Pa
 
D.Starry Yake   Pittsburgh, Pa
 
Do the direct finish to make it a 5.5. super fun! Jun 28, 2011
The direct finish is great! May 12, 2011
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.4
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.4
My first time at Seneca: after doing Simple J Malarky and not having much fun on it, getting lost on the way to do Green Wall, and saying "screw it, let's just get to the top before sun-down", I happened to be standing under this one which a very enjoyable cruise to the top. Usually I hate this low-level climbing because the falls almost always have ledge-fall potential. This is no different, except for the fact that falling is difficult to do! Even when I was 30 feet above my piece, I felt fine. I highly recommend this route! You could easily protect the whole thing with just nuts and hexes. Sep 14, 2010
George Privon
Santiago, Chile
 
George Privon   Santiago, Chile
 
I second the comment on the direct variation. It is a much more enjoyable pitch than the original finish. Jul 6, 2010
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.5
dinglestyle   Catonsville, MD
  5.5
Super loose flake on the right facing wall of the dihedral just below the ledge with the tree on it. Feb 20, 2009
Bill Hutchins
Bethesda, MD
  5.4
Bill Hutchins   Bethesda, MD
  5.4
The direct finish goes up a nice inside corner to the left off the second belay ledge. Very nice 5.5 climbing with several fun stemming moves. Oct 7, 2007