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Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)
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A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Banana Peels T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Before the Fall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Breakneck Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Burning Tendons T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Caught My Eye T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crispy Critter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Green Dragon T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Green Glass Door S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Green Magic in the Hills S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13 |
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Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hit the Silk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Horrendous Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Inner Planet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mongoose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Past & Pleasant S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pleasant Exposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pleasant Surprise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prune T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scrambled Leggs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Seneca Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Viper, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Pole Direct Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.83453, -79.36677 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,280 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew G on Apr 23, 2015 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
Description
pitch 1
Scramble up into the notch between the Cockscomb and Humphrey's Head. From there, head up and left into the obvious chimney between a massive detached flake and the Cockscomb. Climb past an awkward chockstone to build the belay in a nice flat slot between the flake and the west face of the Cockscomb.
pitch 2
Head up the obvious crack system at the large notch cut out from the flake. About 20 feet up, head left and eventually traverse across the summit of the Cockscomb
Alternatively, just fire straight up from the belay to finish on Breakneck. The crack kinda peters out, so protection is sparse for the last ~20 ft. You can place some marginal small cams, but I wouldn't want to test them. I'd call this section of climbing about 5.7 by Seneca standards.
I recommend the alternate finish-- it's a more natural line.
Location
At the junction where the approach trail meets the west face, head right, scramble up to start directly between the Cockscomb and Humphrey's Head.
Protection
Standard rack, bring your tiny cams if you want to attempt to protect the Breakneck finish.
There's a slung tree and a slung boulder on top of the Cockscomb with rap rings. As of 4/15, the cord on the tree does not inspire much confidence (nor does the tree itself), but the two cords around the boulder are in great shape. Double rope rap back to the base. Or head north over the Cockscomb to rap from Windy Notch.
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