Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 666 total · 15/month
Shared By: Andrew G on Apr 23, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

pitch 1
Scramble up into the notch between the Cockscomb and Humphrey's Head. From there, head up and left into the obvious chimney between a massive detached flake and the Cockscomb. Climb past an awkward chockstone to build the belay in a nice flat slot between the flake and the west face of the Cockscomb.

pitch 2
Head up the obvious crack system at the large notch cut out from the flake. About 20 feet up, head left and eventually traverse across the summit of the Cockscomb

Alternatively, just fire straight up from the belay to finish on Breakneck. The crack kinda peters out, so protection is sparse for the last ~20 ft. You can place some marginal small cams, but I wouldn't want to test them. I'd call this section of climbing about 5.7 by Seneca standards.

I recommend the alternate finish-- it's a more natural line.

Location

At the junction where the approach trail meets the west face, head right, scramble up to start directly between the Cockscomb and Humphrey's Head.

Protection

Standard rack, bring your tiny cams if you want to attempt to protect the Breakneck finish.

There's a slung tree and a slung boulder on top of the Cockscomb with rap rings. As of 4/15, the cord on the tree does not inspire much confidence (nor does the tree itself), but the two cords around the boulder are in great shape. Double rope rap back to the base. Or head north over the Cockscomb to rap from Windy Notch.

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