Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 20,804 total · 157/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on May 27, 2008
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

166 Opinions

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A classic by any stretch of the imagination and hard to find free on the weekend.

P1. Start up inside corner left of Thais and step left to stance with old pins at right edge of large roof. Don't trust the pins alone for belay!

P2. The crux of the route is likely stepping off the belay. Traverse left under roof to its end and another gear belay. Some like to bring a #4 camalot for the P2 belay.

P3. Climb up large holds on steep ground to top. This is a spectacular pitch.


Begins in corner up and left of Thais face.


Std rack with possible addition of a #4 camalot.
Joe Dietrick  
Classic route. Not too difficult but great exposure. A must do at Seneca! Makes for a good view for the tourist at the Visitors Center. Feb 6, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
This was the firtst route I ever tried to do at Seneca.
Somehow I got the routes mixed up and did 'Direct Toe' (5.10b, R) by mistake. Needless to say, for a few moments, the rumors of Seneca Sandbagging certainly felt true.
Only a year or two later did I finally get the right line. Felt a little hard at the grade, but not like a 10b! Feb 6, 2009
Eric Kuenstner
Los Angeles, CA
Eric Kuenstner   Los Angeles, CA
the first pitch pales in comparison to the exposure and wild nature of the second and third pitches but still manages to have some fun somewhat runout moves in the corner below the belay. looking at the ominous roof from a distance, it's hard to believe that it goes at anything below 5.10, but jugs abound and the feet are solid the entire traverse. absolutely classic. even the rap over the big roof is pretty sweet (be sure to bring two 60's for it!) Aug 6, 2011
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
Very cool climb, both P2 and P3. The climbing is a little strange under the huge roof, but such a cool view. I thought the start of the third pitch was the crux, moving from the belay- my partner had set up a very hanging belay just below the buldge. This made it dificult, but do-able. Definitely a great all around climb. Though, I would find different pitch to climb to the first belay. Oct 14, 2011
Rafael Rovirosa
Salt Lake, UT
Rafael Rovirosa   Salt Lake, UT
Fun climb. For the hanging belay after the second pitch I used number 4 tcu's for the anchor. Oct 24, 2011
I was on this route yesterday, first time at Seneca, and climbed the first pitch through a steep-ish lieback that is a bit left of the regular start. It has a couple of old pitons and a scary old spinner bolt at a crux move at the top of the pitch, putting you about midway through the roof traverse. Does anyone have info on this start? It felt a bit harder than 5.7, so I imagine I was off route. No one around there knew what I was talking about when I asked. Thanks! Sep 3, 2013
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
standard p1 is mostly junk (Thias Direct p1 instead way better and a bit spicy w/o big gear)
p2 have got great position and photo ops
p3 is steep and dramatic an awesome finish Sep 15, 2013
Luke Lindeman
Lancaster, PA
Luke Lindeman   Lancaster, PA
Had a great time on this last weekend. Although the 2nd pitch is where the naming comes from and you assume that's the glory pitch, the meat and potatoes is definitely pitch 3. Keeps you guessing and is definitely exciting. Don't bring someone new to multi-pitch or Seneca in general. Oct 26, 2015
I saw a leader build his anchor above the "bulge" at the end of pitch 2 to avoid the established hanging belay/anchor. This may be a more comfortable way to go. Definitely back up the standard anchor if you choose to use the regular one. Aug 10, 2016
Cobra Wrestlr
Mary land
Cobra Wrestlr   Mary land
there is a very loose lunchbox sized rock on the 3rd pitch about 30 feet or so above hanging belay just teetering on the edge... it would be a nice hold but is fairly dangerous where as it could possibly hit belayer or people starting p1 proper or people walking towards green wall...

p2 i believe you can do the traverse up high or down lower... down low is where i found loose flakes but it felt easier to me then gaining the high traverse....the moves including stepping of p1 belay are not hard.. i felt that the moves starting p3 right off the hanging belay to gain the steep inside corner of the roof system were the crux..

p1 proper which goes up the right slanting flakes is good climbing and exciting.. a nice build up coming across and underneath the traverse you make on the next pitch..

Enjoy!!! Jul 9, 2018
Cruz Vargas
Arlington, VA
Cruz Vargas   Arlington, VA
beta in route description describes the Thai's direct start - definitely preferable to the guidebook first pitch of PO that starts further left and involves some route finding / not particularly interesting or sustained climbing.

on the P2 traverse, grab that solid 0.4ish cam before stepping off the belay and don't get sucked up into the roof. aim low, kinda below that piece of rock that looks like george washington, to end up at standard belay tat 5 days ago