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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 18,440 total, 159/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on May 27, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

A classic by any stretch of the imagination and hard to find free on the weekend.

P1. Start up inside corner left of Thais and step left to stance with old pins at right edge of large roof. Don't trust the pins alone for belay!

P2. The crux of the route is likely stepping off the belay. Traverse left under roof to its end and another gear belay. Some like to bring a #4 camalot for the P2 belay.

P3. Climb up large holds on steep ground to top. This is a spectacular pitch.

Location

Begins in corner up and left of Thais face.

Protection

Std rack with possible addition of a #4 camalot.
attila  
I saw a leader build his anchor above the "bulge" at the end of pitch 2 to avoid the established hanging belay/anchor. This may be a more comfortable way to go. Definitely back up the standard anchor if you choose to use the regular one. Aug 10, 2016
Luke Lindeman
Lancaster, PA
 
Luke Lindeman   Lancaster, PA
 
Had a great time on this last weekend. Although the 2nd pitch is where the naming comes from and you assume that's the glory pitch, the meat and potatoes is definitely pitch 3. Keeps you guessing and is definitely exciting. Don't bring someone new to multi-pitch or Seneca in general. Oct 26, 2015
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
standard p1 is mostly junk (Thias Direct p1 instead way better and a bit spicy w/o big gear)
p2 have got great position and photo ops
p3 is steep and dramatic an awesome finish Sep 15, 2013
I was on this route yesterday, first time at Seneca, and climbed the first pitch through a steep-ish lieback that is a bit left of the regular start. It has a couple of old pitons and a scary old spinner bolt at a crux move at the top of the pitch, putting you about midway through the roof traverse. Does anyone have info on this start? It felt a bit harder than 5.7, so I imagine I was off route. No one around there knew what I was talking about when I asked. Thanks! Sep 3, 2013
Rafael Rovirosa
Salt Lake, UT
Rafael Rovirosa   Salt Lake, UT
Fun climb. For the hanging belay after the second pitch I used number 4 tcu's for the anchor. Oct 24, 2011
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.7+
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.7+
Very cool climb, both P2 and P3. The climbing is a little strange under the huge roof, but such a cool view. I thought the start of the third pitch was the crux, moving from the belay- my partner had set up a very hanging belay just below the buldge. This made it dificult, but do-able. Definitely a great all around climb. Though, I would find different pitch to climb to the first belay. Oct 14, 2011
Eric Kuenstner
Los Angeles, CA
 
Eric Kuenstner   Los Angeles, CA
 
the first pitch pales in comparison to the exposure and wild nature of the second and third pitches but still manages to have some fun somewhat runout moves in the corner below the belay. looking at the ominous roof from a distance, it's hard to believe that it goes at anything below 5.10, but jugs abound and the feet are solid the entire traverse. absolutely classic. even the rap over the big roof is pretty sweet (be sure to bring two 60's for it!) Aug 6, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
This was the firtst route I ever tried to do at Seneca.
Somehow I got the routes mixed up and did 'Direct Toe' (5.10b, R) by mistake. Needless to say, for a few moments, the rumors of Seneca Sandbagging certainly felt true.
Only a year or two later did I finally get the right line. Felt a little hard at the grade, but not like a 10b! Feb 6, 2009
Joe Dietrick  
 
Classic route. Not too difficult but great exposure. A must do at Seneca! Makes for a good view for the tourist at the Visitors Center. Feb 6, 2009