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Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)
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A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Banana Peels T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Before the Fall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Breakneck Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Burning Tendons T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Caught My Eye T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crispy Critter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Green Dragon T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Green Magic in the Hills S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13 |
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Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hit the Silk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Inner Planet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mongoose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Past & Pleasant S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pleasant Exposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pleasant Surprise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prune T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scrambled Leggs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Seneca Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Viper, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Marshall, John Christian 1955 |
| Page Views: | 6,046 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Felix Duvallet on May 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
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Description
(Marshall's didn't have a page separate from Crack of Dawn so this was created)
This is a classic! Three excellent pitches, but some or all can be combined. A lot of parties only do the first one, but all three offer great climbing.
1. Start at an obvious hand/fist crack on the left of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. Climb through a small overhang to the first belay (visible from the ground).
2. Continue straight up through widening cracks, eventually traversing left on easier ground to a 3-bolt belay on a ledge on the left face (which won't be visible until you get there).
3. Move back to the right, climb straight up the face/cracks to a small chimney. At the chimney move right to a very small ledge and cold shuts (this is also the top of Crack of Dawn).
This is a classic! Three excellent pitches, but some or all can be combined. A lot of parties only do the first one, but all three offer great climbing.
1. Start at an obvious hand/fist crack on the left of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. Climb through a small overhang to the first belay (visible from the ground).
2. Continue straight up through widening cracks, eventually traversing left on easier ground to a 3-bolt belay on a ledge on the left face (which won't be visible until you get there).
3. Move back to the right, climb straight up the face/cracks to a small chimney. At the chimney move right to a very small ledge and cold shuts (this is also the top of Crack of Dawn).
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