Marshall's Madness [Edit]
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 59 votes
Routes in South Peak - West Face
The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c | |
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unsorted Routes: |
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Type: | Trad, 165 ft, 3 pitches |
FA: | Tom Marshall, John Christian 1955 |
Page Views: | 2,235 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Felix Duvallet on May 21, 2012 |
Admins: | Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Description [Edit]
(Marshall's didn't have a page separate from Crack of Dawn so this was created)
This is a classic! Three excellent pitches, but some or all can be combined. A lot of parties only do the first one, but all three offer great climbing.
1. Start at an obvious hand/fist crack on the left of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. Climb through a small overhang to the first belay (visible from the ground).
2. Continue straight up through widening cracks, eventually traversing left on easier ground to a 3-bolt belay on a ledge on the left face (which won't be visible until you get there).
3. Move back to the right, climb straight up the face/cracks to a small chimney. At the chimney move right to a very small ledge and cold shuts (this is also the top of Crack of Dawn).
This is a classic! Three excellent pitches, but some or all can be combined. A lot of parties only do the first one, but all three offer great climbing.
1. Start at an obvious hand/fist crack on the left of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. Climb through a small overhang to the first belay (visible from the ground).
2. Continue straight up through widening cracks, eventually traversing left on easier ground to a 3-bolt belay on a ledge on the left face (which won't be visible until you get there).
3. Move back to the right, climb straight up the face/cracks to a small chimney. At the chimney move right to a very small ledge and cold shuts (this is also the top of Crack of Dawn).
Location [Edit]
Left side of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. This route shares a start with Crack of Dawn.
Two ropes will get you all the way down. With a single rope, stopping at the anchors on Triple S is one easy way down.
Two ropes will get you all the way down. With a single rope, stopping at the anchors on Triple S is one easy way down.
DC