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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,277 total, 44/month
Shared By: Laura Hahn on Nov 1, 2009 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

#1 Climb up through the notch between Humphrey's Head and the Cockscomb. Belay on a flat ledge with a view to the east. Or initially belay on the west side of the notch for convenience, then move the belay prior to doing P2.(90 feet)
#2 Move out onto the East Face by climbing right and then down. After one exciting move, begin traversing right on an easy ledge to several large trees. This is also a high version that allows the leader to protect the second: traverse right from the belay and step over to a narrow left-facing corner and good handholds. Finish on the ledge traverse. (75 feet)
#3 Climb up and right to the north end of the ledge and climb the sloping flake/ chimney. (100 feet)
#4 Walk right on the large Summit Ledge for about 100 feet to the final Summit Ridge. Many people simply scramble up the exposed 4th class section to the summit. If you are unsure of your ability, belay the final exposed section to the actual summit.

Location

Begin on the Luncheon Ledge, at the gap between Humphrey's Head and the Cockscomb.

Protection

Standard trad rack and long slings

Photos

Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
 
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
 
For new climbers following pitch 2, the down climbing near the start of pitch 2 (the section immediately after the photo by David Engel of Karen Hoffman) may be intimidating and result in a bad traversing fall. Oct 26, 2017
This was our first route climbed at Seneca Rocks. It's really easy. Like a scramble with rock protection. I wouldn't recommend it for anyone but the absolute beginner. And even then, a beginner has to know how to deal with lead belaying and top belaying on traverses, and the third pitch is difficult to protect well in the chimney without wide gear assuming I didn't miss anything else. Unless you are an absolute beginner trad leader, start with routes rated 5.4. The book doesn't tell you that the belay station after the third pitch is a bolted anchor past the chimney section going upward to the right if you face the wall.

The only plus about this climb is that this got us to the summit ridge. We choose to scramble up the fourth pitch and to the summit ridge. Jun 7, 2016
David Engel
Santa Rosa, CA
David Engel   Santa Rosa, CA
I did this route in 1971 with Dave Templeton of the PATC Mountaineering Section and many times thereafter. It was a thrill during my high school days to lead this climb. Aug 12, 2015
Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.2
Adam Marcus   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.2
I really wasn't sure I was at the right start spot because the Horst book says the first pitch is 100 feet and looking up from the base, it looked more like 50 feet. After climbing about 25 feet, there's a tree directly overhead and you can go left or right. I think the "flat ledge with a nice view to the east" is to the right, but I went to the left. The second pitch is on the east face, so when the guidebook says to "move right and down onto a ledge on the East Face" it means that you're moving to the north (climber's LEFT from the orientation of the first pitch). It's not that confusing when you get there.

The second pitch is so easy it's hard to remember to stop and place enough protection for the second. I kept looking back and realizing I had just moved 20+ feet without placing anything, so then I'd have to move back and place something.

You can climb Windy Corner (5.4) as an alternative to the third pitch. Both end in the approximate same spot: on the east side of the Traffic Jam rappel. Oct 20, 2014
First multi-pitch trad lead! Seems like a fun, quality route for such a low rating as 5.2. The exposure was definitely "interesting" for a new leader. Jun 1, 2012
dr. morbius
ituri rainforest
dr. morbius   ituri rainforest
Ahh, brings back memories of my first lead on this circa 1984 ... intimidated by the height of Seneca since all I'd been on was 30' of limestone, a spanking new pair of Fire's, partner who let me lead the crux pitch and then had to spend 45 minutes cleaning the #4 friend I carefully buried at the bottom of the pitch to protect against an upward pull. This was a few years before the Gendarme fell off so we got to climb that. Then on the ridge to the descent someone asked me to throw them the rope which I had coiled so I threw the whole rope, coming close to pitching it all the way to the bottom & leaving us stranded. Rapping off at night, drinking beer. Haven't thought about this climb in forever (gee, wonder why...) ... Guess I'll have to go back to it someday now! Nov 10, 2010