Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Greg Collins, Hernado Vera
Page Views: 1,322 total · 17/month
Shared By: K Baumgartner on Sep 9, 2012
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Start up the short, right facing corner to gain a small ledge below the crack. Plug a few more pieces in the finger crack and then follow it up around the EXTREMELY loose, huge block (crux). This block is so loose it moved when I barely grazed it with my shoulder.

You could very easily link Crusher and Crispy Critters into one long pitch without too much drag.

Location

Old Man's traverse ledge about 10 feet above the Front C tree and about 35 feet directly below Crispy Critter. Belay from two small trees to the right of the route to stay out of the fall zone should the loose block give way.

Protection

Small cams (Metolius TCU 01 to BD .5/1).

Photos

K Baumgartner
  5.9-
K Baumgartner  
  5.9-
Seconded this route last weekend with Andy. Led it this week and almost fell right around the block and noticed that my #1BD had walked back, which would have certainly led to an ankle breaking fall to the ledge. Good place about 1.5 feet above block helps protect the top out.

Make sure the belayer is way to the right of the huge block should it come free. Sep 9, 2012
Seth Murphy  
 
While the block appears very insecure, it's not. Similar to the flexy flake on banana, the creaky hold on Ambush, etc.. Welcome to Seneca. Sep 17, 2012
K Baumgartner
  5.9-
K Baumgartner  
  5.9-
Uh, well that block actually pulls out, so leave it to each person to decide for themselves how secure it really is. Jun 30, 2013
Evan Anderson
Boulder, CO
Evan Anderson   Boulder, CO
Creaky hold on Ambush? I didn't notice one.... Aug 22, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.9-
K Baumgartner  
  5.9-
Crusher to Crispy linkup is the way to go.

Had the block move out against my chest. Probably should be trundled mid-week. Apr 24, 2016
Natty Critter ! Dec 1, 2016
Bruce F  
It would be a shame if the block was intentionally trundled. Rock is not permanent, but that block has provided the soul of this climb for a long time. May 16, 2017