Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Scordoes and party
Page Views: 20,904 total · 140/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Feb 26, 2007
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


124 Opinions

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Description

From Gunsight Notch, climb the arete towards the South Peak until you are able to move onto the East Face on thin flakes. Climb around the Gryphon's Beak and finish on the regular Gunsight to South Peak route. Great exposure for a 5.4!

Location

Start at the Gunsight Notch. You can climb Banana and Debbie, scramble up ledges on the west side, or take the trail up the east side to Upper Broadway and scramble a short 5.0 to gain the notch. To descend use the standard South Peak rappel routes.

Protection

Standard Seneca Rack, eats passive pro.
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.6
dinglestyle   Catonsville, MD
  5.6
This climb is really on the east face. I would rate it 5.6 I would say Candy Corner and Critter Crack are very comparable in rating. This climb scared me more then Castor, which is a 5.10, the first time I climbed it. Be ready for some of the best exposure in the East. Feb 20, 2009
Conway Yao
Washington, District of Col…
  5.4
Conway Yao   Washington, District of Col…
  5.4
The "Climb VA/MD/WV" guidebook by Horst makes it appear that there's a belay stance right above Gryphon's Beak on the west face, but we weren't able to find any. We established a belay on the summit ridge, which has plenty of rock horns or boulders to sling. Only downside is no direct line-of-sight to Gunsight Notch, so communication can be tricky.

Second pitch is really just a scramble along the ridge to the South Peak summit proper.

IMO, once you ignore the exposure, the climbing was certainly easier than other Seneca 5.6s like Critter Crack, for sure. Apr 8, 2019