Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,716 total · 49/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Oct 16, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


132 Opinions

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Description

Climb a blocky, right facing set of flakes with an exciting finish to a ledge. The flakes form an arc, hence the route name. There are typically some loose flakes or blocks on this route, so be cautious.

From Banana, you can climb Debbie and gain the Gunsight Notch, or angle left, then right up some ledge systems on easy ground to the Gunsight Notch.

Location

Begin directly below the Gunsight Notch on the West Face of the South Peak. Take the trail used for Old Man's Route and head up to the wall from there.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack

Photos

cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
Definitely watch the loose rock. As of April '09, there was a large (10 lbs?) block loose about 3/4 of the way up. Would have made a great hold... Apr 19, 2009
I'm always afraid that the entire route is going to fall away if someone takes a leader fall in the top 3rd of the route. If you feel sketched at the top, use the tree-it's not a competition!! Sep 6, 2012
Cody Bradford
Boone, NC
Cody Bradford   Boone, NC
Agree with the above comment. Top half of this climb is a no fall zone. That being said, you could be written in the next guide as the one who brought Banana down. Seriously, don't fall. Nov 13, 2012
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
Banana has some neat moves and offers the new Seneca leader steep heads up climbing! The crux is probably more like a 5.7 or 8 and is the obvious section up high before the top out. I also agree with the above comments; DO NOT fall on this route or it may come with you! Nov 14, 2012
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.7
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.7
Shouldn't the flakes be described as right-facing? Fun route, regardless, and tougher than it looks.

And the loose blocks on the upper part of the route are still there. Jun 2, 2014
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
  5.6
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
  5.6
@Andrew G - thanks for the feedback, I changed the description to "right facing". Must dyslexic be I. If I recall, the loose flakes were still pretty solidly wedged in the crack system so they might be there for quite some time. I think they are OK as long as you aren't counting on using pro behind them. Jun 4, 2014
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
  5.6
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
  5.6
Not technically hard, but dear god everyone is right about it feeling that it could fall off. Feb 6, 2016
Conor Clarke  
 
Just adding an additional two cents: I don't agree with the assessment that the top third of the route feels like it's going to collapse or is otherwise a no-fall zone. I saw one large, loose hold -- plastered with a large "X," about the size of a toaster, and easily avoidable -- about 2/3 of the way up. I wouldn't pull on this block. Otherwise, I thought the route was safe and fun. Apr 17, 2018
Air Alexy
Washington, DC
Air Alexy   Washington, DC
WARNING: As of July 2018, this route is NOT safe. The large 10-lb block referenced below is still there, barely hanging on, and most of the flake system is loose. It seems like the entire route could fall down at any time. I placed only one piece of gear and thought I might be the last person to ever climb this. I definitely should be. Jul 9, 2018
Kennedy Carey
  5.8
Kennedy Carey  
  5.8
Thought this was a fun climb. Pretty consistent climbing until the end, pulling the ledge is for sure the crux. The loose block is pretty obvious and clearly marked with an "x" in chalk. There was one or two hollow sounding thin flakes but otherwise I thought the majority of the large flakes were safe to climb on. There is a shiny new #1 C4 stuck as the first piece in the route, unfortunately i couldn't get it out, so I clipped it and moved on. Bomber. Jul 15, 2018
Chad Silva
  5.6 PG13
Chad Silva  
  5.6 PG13
The flake and block are still holding on, somehow. My leader was able to take on a .2 Cam near the top before pulling the ledge, but the quality of the rock really got to him.

I wish there was another way up to Debbie. Oct 10, 2018
Arthur W  
 
Climbed 10/9/18; most of the route actually felt good except for "the block at the top." I followed so can't speak to gear placements. As far as that top block I'd say it's closer to 90-95% of the way up; it's the top right most piece of the flake and there's an obvious crack in an L shape. About the size of a toaster (old school pop up size). There's plenty of holds higher/left but it was definitely unnerving when I first grabbed it.

Re: above, the X washed away and someone got the cam. Oct 11, 2018