Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Cecil & Justin Day
Page Views: 1,077 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tom Cecil on Aug 21, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This climb starts about ten feet left of 'Breakneck' and 30' right of 'Triple S'.
Follow flakes and edges to the obvious right facing corner. A #5 HB and a small wire are your only protection until you reach the corner where a #2 Camalot comes in way handy. Follow the corner up and past two bolts to the second right facing and slightly overhanging flake (TCU's).Move right to jugs and last bolt,make a long reach to a jug. Follow the corners to a two bolt anchor.

Location

The obvious right facing corner and face ten feet left of Breakneck and 30' right of Triple S.

Protection

Gold camalot is the biggest piece you'll need. Bring a standard Seneca rack including HB's.

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Vicki Schwantes
Sacramento, CA
Vicki Schwantes   Sacramento, CA  
The move around the second right facing corner seemed harder than 5.9+, because I couldn't get any traction with my feet! Got a .3 C4 in that corner and took some falls on that :) Fun climbing. Aug 14, 2012
Tom Cecil
  5.9+
Tom Cecil  
  5.9+
good job Vicki! I think we were watching you that day--looked like you were having fun- Feb 17, 2013
At the first right-facing corner, it separates at the bottom into a detached flake...which is loose. I suggest you don't pull hard on it. Apr 17, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Were more bolts added to this? I was expecting two bolts and there were actually four on this climb, the last one I thought was not needed but hey I clipped it anyway. Perhaps it was PG13 but this climb is totally protectable with a few small pieces. No need for a #2 unless you mean a C3...bomber piece at the crux moves under the right-facing corner/overhang before the last bolt. If the last bolt wasn't there you'd probably plug that #2 C4 cam Tom mentioned. Nov 12, 2014