Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Cecil & Justin Day
Page Views: 1,077 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tom Cecil on Aug 21, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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This climb starts about ten feet left of 'Breakneck' and 30' right of 'Triple S'.
Follow flakes and edges to the obvious right facing corner. A #5 HB and a small wire are your only protection until you reach the corner where a #2 Camalot comes in way handy. Follow the corner up and past two bolts to the second right facing and slightly overhanging flake (TCU's).Move right to jugs and last bolt,make a long reach to a jug. Follow the corners to a two bolt anchor.


The obvious right facing corner and face ten feet left of Breakneck and 30' right of Triple S.


Gold camalot is the biggest piece you'll need. Bring a standard Seneca rack including HB's.


- No Photos -
Vicki Schwantes
Sacramento, CA
Vicki Schwantes   Sacramento, CA  
The move around the second right facing corner seemed harder than 5.9+, because I couldn't get any traction with my feet! Got a .3 C4 in that corner and took some falls on that :) Fun climbing. Aug 14, 2012
Tom Cecil
Tom Cecil  
good job Vicki! I think we were watching you that day--looked like you were having fun- Feb 17, 2013
At the first right-facing corner, it separates at the bottom into a detached flake...which is loose. I suggest you don't pull hard on it. Apr 17, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
Were more bolts added to this? I was expecting two bolts and there were actually four on this climb, the last one I thought was not needed but hey I clipped it anyway. Perhaps it was PG13 but this climb is totally protectable with a few small pieces. No need for a #2 unless you mean a C3...bomber piece at the crux moves under the right-facing corner/overhang before the last bolt. If the last bolt wasn't there you'd probably plug that #2 C4 cam Tom mentioned. Nov 12, 2014