Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown / FFA: Jeff Burns (1974)
Page Views: 611 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Malone on Jul 6, 2015 with updates from Andy Weinmann
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Originally called 'Breakneck Direct' but some later starting callng it by many other names. Anyone that has been there can easily see where the original name comes from. I have named it by its original name to honor those that first climbed it and the name that they gave it then..
Start 20 feet right of Breakneck below a crack that splits the face.
#1. Climb the crack to the top.

Location

Start 20 feet right of Breakneck below a crack that splits the face.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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Kris Gorny

  5.10b PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10b PG13
I remember using RP's in some crappy placements to protect the final crux move. Otherwise it's run out at the top. Apr 22, 2007
Rick M
Annapolis, Maryland
  5.10a PG13
Rick M   Annapolis, Maryland
  5.10a PG13
I led this yesterday... NICE ROUTE! Aug 4, 2008
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
I think I placed a blue TCU or a #1 metolius nut toward the top...at any rate, save something small. May 10, 2009
Allison Quirk
San Diego, CA
  5.10a/b
Allison Quirk   San Diego, CA
  5.10a/b
I think this is called 'Breakneck Direct'? Apr 1, 2012
Kirby Crider
DC
 
Kirby Crider   DC
 
Wow. I'm surprised this doesn't seem to get mentioned with the other classic 10s at Seneca. Awesome, sustained crack climbing for 40' or so, with some thin moves to the anchor over good gear at your feet. Aug 4, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b
Yes, this is Breakneck Direct and it's a fantastic line...classic Seneca. There is a direct start to it which basically just climbs the PG13/R rock directly below the cracks instead of using the original Breakneck line to gain the cracks. Direct start is 5.9/10.

Agree with Kirby, place some bomber gear in the 2nd crack and gun it to the top. You can stop and place more gear (I did) but you definitely get more pumped that way! Nov 12, 2014