West Pole Direct Finish
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Banana Peels T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R | |
Before the Fall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Breakneck Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Burning Tendons T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Hit the Silk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Mongoose T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Past & Pleasant S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pleasant Exposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Pleasantly Surprised S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Prune T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Seneca Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Sorcerer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Viper, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 | |
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Joe Ebner, Dennis Grabnegger, and John Markwell (from Barnes, 2nd ed) |
Page Views: | 1,369 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Kristan Markey on Aug 31, 2013 |
Admins: | Andy Weinmann |
Description
Left-facing finger crack arches into a sustained fist and off-width crack. Loose block about half-way up that would be a great hold. Move right onto a balancy position to avoid (the hands are good, just find them),then back into the crack. Even the topout is fun!
Location
From the West Pole belay/rappel rings look up at the crack and right facing corner. Or look 20 ft left from Conn's West rap tree.
Protection
Standard Seneca rack plus a few larger pieces (1-2 BD #4s) for the off-width sections. Takes good gear including hexes.
After your party is up, you can belay them over the top of the fin and down the scramble (4th class) or the direct down climb to thr summit notch.
Note: you can use the rap anchor at the base of the pitch to build a belay, but on busy days, please just look left to thr crack and the build an easy gear anchor to keep folks moving off the summit.
After your party is up, you can belay them over the top of the fin and down the scramble (4th class) or the direct down climb to thr summit notch.
Note: you can use the rap anchor at the base of the pitch to build a belay, but on busy days, please just look left to thr crack and the build an easy gear anchor to keep folks moving off the summit.
Photos
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