West Pole Direct Finish [Suggest Change]
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
Routes in South Peak - West Face
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Balless Boltchoppers, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c | |
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Prune T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
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Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
FA: | Joe Ebner, Dennis Grabnegger, and John Markwell (from Barnes, 2nd ed) |
Page Views: | 600 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Kristan Markey on Aug 31, 2013 |
Admins: | Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Description [Suggest Change]
Left-facing finger crack arches into a sustained fist and off-width crack. Loose block about half-way up that would be a great hold. Move right onto a balancy position to avoid (the hands are good, just find them),then back into the crack. Even the topout is fun!
Location [Suggest Change]
From the West Pole belay/rappel rings look up at the crack and right facing corner. Or look 20 ft left from Conn's West rap tree.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Standard Seneca rack plus a few larger pieces (1-2 BD #4s) for the off-width sections. Takes good gear including hexes.
After your party is up, you can belay them over the top of the fin and down the scramble (4th class) or the direct down climb to thr summit notch.
Note: you can use the rap anchor at the base of the pitch to build a belay, but on busy days, please just look left to thr crack and the build an easy gear anchor to keep folks moving off the summit.
After your party is up, you can belay them over the top of the fin and down the scramble (4th class) or the direct down climb to thr summit notch.
Note: you can use the rap anchor at the base of the pitch to build a belay, but on busy days, please just look left to thr crack and the build an easy gear anchor to keep folks moving off the summit.
Photos
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There's loose rock here and there, especially at the top, where you really need to be careful where you step and what you pull on. Otherwise, though, great route! Nice way to top out. Sep 27, 2016
Also, I don't think this pitch is harder than the rest of West Pole. 5.8 for both routes would probably be consistent with other Seneca grading. Apr 17, 2017