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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,613 total, 100/month
Shared By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

One of the best routes at Seneca, period. West Pole follows a more-or-less continues crack system through two roofs. It can probably be done in one pitch with a 70-meter rope.

P1: Climb up through the easy ledges to a pine tree. Belay either from rings (not advisable on a busy day) or gear.

P2: Follow the broken crack system until it runs into a corner at the bottom of the first roof. Go straight up through the roof and continue through the second. Follow a left-facing corner to a crack and then belay from rings.

Location

West Pole begins at the same place as Old Man's and Conns West.

Protection

Like most Seneca routes, West Pole protects well with passive gear. A double set of nuts and some hexes works fine. There are probably some pitons on the route; maybe some even of WWII vintage.
Accidentally headed up West Pole while attempting Thais - don't ask how... we were exhausted and screwed up. I got to the roofs and didn't feel up to tackling a large, unknown Seneca roof. Bailed off a less than superb chock stone to the left. FYI, the blue lined 120cm runner was left on June 23, 2017. Jun 23, 2017
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.7+
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.7+
We broke up this climb into three pitches. I led P1 to the big ledge with the pine tree next to the bolted rap rings, using the finger/hand crack just right of and below the pine (per Andy Weinmann's comment above). JV led P2 to just below the roofs. The triangular block I stepped on to start P3 was loose and wiggled under my feet. There's also a big plate with an "X" chalk mark on it that's loose next to the crimps below the first roof. Perfect BD C4 #3 placement below lip of first roof. To gain second roof, made big right hand move to reach white colored right pointing flake just over 2nd roof. Great rest after 2nd roof. As of 8/15/15, there was a large flat piece of rock (maybe 12"x12"x2") completely loose lying a couple feet below the Conn's West rap tree. The roofs on this route felt similar in difficulty to Shockley's Ceiling at the Gunks. Aug 17, 2015
Mark Maier
  5.7+
Mark Maier  
  5.7+
The direct start, straight up to the first belay instead of using the Old Man's start, is a great way to bypass the endless line of people on Old Man's on a busy day. There are spots where a fall would really hurt, and your choice of protection spots is limited. Know how to use what the rock gives you. Sep 29, 2013
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
West Pole is CLASSIC! One of my favorite routes at any grade, anywhere. Somebody is going to pull that block out someday....the back side lifted up a couple inches when i grabbed it. As someone else mentioned it isn't needed as a hold and in my opinion should probably be removed in a controlled way. But other than that this route is perfect. Sep 15, 2013
Bailed off a horn before the roof, didn't have the gear to finish the pitch. placed all my big gear before the crux #1 placement Jul 11, 2013
ajtwoface
  5.7+
ajtwoface  
  5.7+
This is a great route! It has two great roofs. However, here is a word of caution:
When you are climbing it be careful, below the first roof on the face there is a loose piece that is faintly marked with a chalk x. Don't touch it, it is tempting because it is such a good handhold. Additionally, there is a cinderblock size piece in the first roof that is super loose. You can lift it up and out. The guides were talking of transporting it out last time I was out there. There is a good jam behind the block that you can use but also don't touch that block. Other than that, have an amazing time on this route! May 19, 2012
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
There's really two ways to start this route. The original line goes up the first few ledges of Old Man's until you reach the large ledge for the start of West Pole.

The second (and I'd say more fun) option is to climb the face and ledges directly below the pine tree at the start of West Pole, finishing on a hand-sized, left leaning crack. This should be considered West Pole Direct Start and probably rates 5.5/5.6 PG13/R. The climbing is easier down low where it might be a little runout. The gear placements are there in the upper part, but don't pass them up. A fall would almost certainly mean you'd hit a ledge.

With 60m rope you can easily link this Direct Start and P1 of West Pole. A #4 BD Cam sized piece is helpful for the belay below the roofs. Oct 11, 2011
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.7+ PG13
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.7+ PG13
Awesome awesome climb. Had to set up a belay just before the first roof to decrease rope drag and get some gear back. Fun and exposed roofs, but totally do-able. Straight forward climb that was well protected the entire way. Aug 12, 2010
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.8
dinglestyle   Catonsville, MD
  5.8
Beware of the lose block right after the crux. I think it would be hard to pull it out, but you never know what a desperate person will do. Another Classic sandbag +=next grade up. Feb 20, 2009
Jeremy P Franz
Greenville, SC
  5.7+
Jeremy P Franz   Greenville, SC
  5.7+
Great route, the direct finish (5.8) is exposed and enjoyable. Aug 10, 2008
Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
 
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
 
I think I left a C3 cam in the bottom of the roof this morning. Jun 26, 2008
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.7+
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.7+
You can climb it as one pitch with a 60m rope which is commonly done. A super classic and yes, its only 5.7+! May 27, 2008
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
One day when I was climbing a route nearby, two teenage girls headed up the trail and started racking up for Westpole. One of their fathers was a climber and had given them just enough gear to do Old Man's Route (5.2) - the route they TOLD HIM they were headed out to do. Instead they climbed Westpole with five nuts and two hexes! Jun 14, 2007