Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,705 total · 98/month
Shared By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


142 Opinions

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Description

One of the best routes at Seneca, period. West Pole follows a more-or-less continues crack system through two roofs. It can probably be done in one pitch with a 70-meter rope.

P1: Climb up through the easy ledges to a pine tree. Belay either from rings (not advisable on a busy day) or gear.

P2: Follow the broken crack system until it runs into a corner at the bottom of the first roof. Go straight up through the roof and continue through the second. Follow a left-facing corner to a crack and then belay from rings.

Location

West Pole begins at the same place as Old Man's and Conns West.

Protection

Like most Seneca routes, West Pole protects well with passive gear. A double set of nuts and some hexes works fine. There are probably some pitons on the route; maybe some even of WWII vintage.
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
One day when I was climbing a route nearby, two teenage girls headed up the trail and started racking up for Westpole. One of their fathers was a climber and had given them just enough gear to do Old Man's Route (5.2) - the route they TOLD HIM they were headed out to do. Instead they climbed Westpole with five nuts and two hexes! Jun 14, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.7+
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.7+
You can climb it as one pitch with a 60m rope which is commonly done. A super classic and yes, its only 5.7+! May 27, 2008
Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
 
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
 
I think I left a C3 cam in the bottom of the roof this morning. Jun 26, 2008
Jeremy P Franz
Greenville, SC
  5.7+
Jeremy P Franz   Greenville, SC
  5.7+
Great route, the direct finish (5.8) is exposed and enjoyable. Aug 10, 2008
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.8
dinglestyle   Catonsville, MD
  5.8
Beware of the lose block right after the crux. I think it would be hard to pull it out, but you never know what a desperate person will do. Another Classic sandbag +=next grade up. Feb 20, 2009
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.7+ PG13
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.7+ PG13
Awesome awesome climb. Had to set up a belay just before the first roof to decrease rope drag and get some gear back. Fun and exposed roofs, but totally do-able. Straight forward climb that was well protected the entire way. Aug 12, 2010
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
There's really two ways to start this route. The original line goes up the first few ledges of Old Man's until you reach the large ledge for the start of West Pole.

The second (and I'd say more fun) option is to climb the face and ledges directly below the pine tree at the start of West Pole, finishing on a hand-sized, left leaning crack. This should be considered West Pole Direct Start and probably rates 5.5/5.6 PG13/R. The climbing is easier down low where it might be a little runout. The gear placements are there in the upper part, but don't pass them up. A fall would almost certainly mean you'd hit a ledge.

With 60m rope you can easily link this Direct Start and P1 of West Pole. A #4 BD Cam sized piece is helpful for the belay below the roofs. Oct 11, 2011
ajtwoface
  5.7+
ajtwoface  
  5.7+
This is a great route! It has two great roofs. However, here is a word of caution:
When you are climbing it be careful, below the first roof on the face there is a loose piece that is faintly marked with a chalk x. Don't touch it, it is tempting because it is such a good handhold. Additionally, there is a cinderblock size piece in the first roof that is super loose. You can lift it up and out. The guides were talking of transporting it out last time I was out there. There is a good jam behind the block that you can use but also don't touch that block. Other than that, have an amazing time on this route! May 19, 2012
Bailed off a horn before the roof, didn't have the gear to finish the pitch. placed all my big gear before the crux #1 placement Jul 11, 2013
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
West Pole is CLASSIC! One of my favorite routes at any grade, anywhere. Somebody is going to pull that block out someday....the back side lifted up a couple inches when i grabbed it. As someone else mentioned it isn't needed as a hold and in my opinion should probably be removed in a controlled way. But other than that this route is perfect. Sep 15, 2013
Mark Maier
  5.7+
Mark Maier  
  5.7+
The direct start, straight up to the first belay instead of using the Old Man's start, is a great way to bypass the endless line of people on Old Man's on a busy day. There are spots where a fall would really hurt, and your choice of protection spots is limited. Know how to use what the rock gives you. Sep 29, 2013
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.7+
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.7+
We broke up this climb into three pitches. I led P1 to the big ledge with the pine tree next to the bolted rap rings, using the finger/hand crack just right of and below the pine (per Andy Weinmann's comment above). JV led P2 to just below the roofs. The triangular block I stepped on to start P3 was loose and wiggled under my feet. There's also a big plate with an "X" chalk mark on it that's loose next to the crimps below the first roof. Perfect BD C4 #3 placement below lip of first roof. To gain second roof, made big right hand move to reach white colored right pointing flake just over 2nd roof. Great rest after 2nd roof. As of 8/15/15, there was a large flat piece of rock (maybe 12"x12"x2") completely loose lying a couple feet below the Conn's West rap tree. The roofs on this route felt similar in difficulty to Shockley's Ceiling at the Gunks. Aug 17, 2015
Accidentally headed up West Pole while attempting Thais - don't ask how... we were exhausted and screwed up. I got to the roofs and didn't feel up to tackling a large, unknown Seneca roof. Bailed off a less than superb chock stone to the left. FYI, the blue lined 120cm runner was left on June 23, 2017. Jun 23, 2017