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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,107 total, 20/month
Shared By: DennisL on May 20, 2013 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Climb up to the tree then diagonal right to the large corner and a big flake. (keep going right for Broken Neck, 10b). Climb above the flake to a good ledge and belay.
P2: Follow the big corner to its top and belay. If you cut left here to Windy Corner you're on Jankowitz-Kamm (5.5).
P3: Continue to the top of the Cockscomb.

Location

Breakneck starts about in the middle of the face below the Cockscomb below a small tree. The large left-facing corner you will follow should be obvious higher up. The steep face of Broken Neck (aka Breakneck Direct) is the crack system further right.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
I'd put a PG rating for gear on this unless you bring big gear like a #4 and/or #5 cam. Some of the rock seems questionable down low where you'd like to get a placement. Definitely climbing above your gear on this to better placements.

Also, linking P1 and P2 is a good option if you can manage the drag. Oct 26, 2015
mbarley Barley  
  5.7
1st Pitch.
Climb wandering flake system, past a few fixed pins and belay from nice stance just right of Broken Neck. Second pitch pulls and ascends the flake system and then straight up to the top. The second pitch is the best. Jun 9, 2014