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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Christian and Arnold Wexler in 1971
Page Views: 4,796 total, 43/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Oct 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch one is easier w/ only poor protection the first 40' then creative protection the rest of the way. Interesting movements. Pitch two has great protection the whole way w/ a well defined crux near the top.

The Prune Incident- In '96 a climber set a #1 Camalot off the belay station then went up clipping pitons the whole way. He fell at the crux and every piton failed with only the camalot catching. Apparently he almost hit a woman starting the first pitch. Gendarme climb shop displays some of those pitons.

Location

On the west side of South Peak. To the climbers left of Face of 1000 pitons and Le Gourmet

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.7+
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.7+
Four stars for pitch 2 alone. There's good gear placements at the crux on P2, so no reason not to protect it well. On P3, I opted for the left variation and wished I had a #4. On P4, the left facing corner/crack/flake system is fun and exposed, but there's a lot of loose blocks behind the exposed flake. For the descent via the narrow chimney to the East Face summit trail, it might be a good idea to belay/lower inexperienced climbers. Next time, I would skip P4 and just traverse left to Conn's West rappel. Mar 27, 2017
Dave Ellis
Franklin Lakes, NJ
Dave Ellis   Franklin Lakes, NJ
I did this climb in 1980 and there were no pins on P2 crack. P2 is a classic sandbag from way back. ..it was rated 5.5 when i did it. ...spit 5.11 climbers off in the day Nov 2, 2016
I left a fixed nut and cam on this route last weekend. My leader was new to the sport and got my brand new Trango Flex Cam #9 stuck on pitch 3.

Also, the crux at the top of pitch 2 feels way harder than a 5.7! Be sure to place some pro so you don't break your ankles on the ledge there. Nov 11, 2015
John Burkhart 1
Morgantown, West Virginia
John Burkhart 1   Morgantown, West Virginia
I highly recommend not following the advice to link pitch 1 and 2. There is an enormous ledge upon which to build a gear anchor after the first rampy pitch 1. Without separating these pitches rope drag becomes a big issue when you are trying to pull the hardest moves on pitch 2 at the upper finger crack crux. This is a great route and pitch 2 is really good. Creative but good gear and the crux finger-crack can be well protected with stoppers and small cams. Apr 28, 2014
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
5.7 PG13
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
5.7 PG13
A quick check of the guidebook lists the FA as John Christian and Arnold Wexler in 1971. If an admin or the original submitter gets a chance, it may be nice to update the route with that info.

Route submitters: please don't forget the FA party. It's important! Sep 10, 2013
Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
It's been an awfully long time, but I do remember this route pretty vividly because it was on P2 that I had my first lead fall and it was on a stopper, not a pin. So I am a little confused about "The Prune Incident" because my incident was ca 1983 and there were zero pins on that pitch, at least as well as I can remember. Maybe the pins were put in sometime after that...? Apr 20, 2012
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Actually, P3 and P4 should be done separately.

P3: Best way (in my opinion) is to climb the left facing corner system/flake directly behind the belay atop P2 (book says the original route goes on the right side); long slings helpful here. Follow the obvious crack system up. If you don't want to do P4, you can end the pitch at the pine tree on the left. Otherwise, continue up and right past left-facing corner to a tree and a good ledge. (5.6)

P4: Climb the huge flake/chimney system directly above the belay ledge to the top. (5.7)

You can sling a large part of the flake on the top for your anchor. Descent will require you to traverse between the flakes to the ledge on the other side (top of Le Gourmet P4). There is block that usually has slings and a rap ring. Be sure to bring bail gear just in case. This rappel puts you on the summit ledge. Aug 1, 2011
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.7
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.7
The Prune is a 4 pitch route that can be done in two long pitches with a 60m rope. It goes all the way to the top of Back To The Front.

P1: 5.6 Rish. 60 feet. From the ground climb towards tree on ledge above getting gear where you can, not necessarily everywhere.

P2: 5.7. 60 feet. Best pitch of the route. Behind the belay, climb a steeper pitch up cracks with the crux of the route coming in the last 15 feet before Old Man's Traverse Ledge and the belay. A number of folks have broken an ankle on the small ledge below the crux by failing to adequately protect this final crack. Belay from large pine tree on Old Mans Traverse Ledge

P1 and 2 can easily be linked with a 60m rope and a standard Seneca rack.

P3 and P4: 5.6ish. Climb the easier ground behind the belay tree and left of the face above you. I have never done this as 2 seperate pitches but the guide calls it 2. You want to use a few long slings to avoid rope drag. These pitches are obscure, fun and guaranteed to never have a line!

Descend as for Back To The Front Oct 2, 2008