Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten )
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Routes in South Peak - West Face
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Balless Boltchoppers, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Breakneck Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c | |
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Hit the Silk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Mongoose T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Moonshine T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R | |
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Viper, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 | |
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
FA: | Jesse and Kristin Morehouse |
Page Views: | 810 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Jesse Morehouse on Oct 26, 2012 |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Description
Climb up the left trending ramp start for Back to the Front. From the stance where BTTF traverses right, go straight up over the roof to a slab. There is gear at the lip. Go pretty much straight up to the steep rock above aiming for a bolt which is at the crux. Above that, a small horizontal or two leads to a vertical crack finishing just left of BTTF. Build a gear anchor and descend as per BTTF.
A little history on the multiple names. We climbed it ground up after rapping it to see if it was worth doing. I was too much of a chicken to commit to the crux on lead since there was no gear to prevent smacking the slab if you blew it so I made a runout traverse right, up 6 feet then back left to the horizontals above the crux. My wife followed, climbing the crux. That winter we went back to put in a bolt at the crux on lead but, I bit off more than I reckoned by trying a direct start up the face below the ramp start to BTTF. 15 or so feet up with no pro (after finding the first horizontal to be a shallow flare), I was just about to pull up to the second horizontal when a hold blew and I pitched, bouncing off of Old Man's traverse ledge, falling 30+ feet total and breaking my foot. With no pro in the fall smashed my wife into her anchor, the tree at the top of P2 of Prune, with a side collision that drove the side of her helmet into her head splitting it open, filling her helmet with blood and dazing her. She still held the fall super solid and is my hero. After extracting ourselves from that mess which happened on a Monday in late winter with no one around, we drove to the Petersburg hospital where a foreign exchange doc/intern/whatever tried telling my wife she was suffering from an STD and not a mild concussion. I got a pink cast.
Needless to say, the bolt never got put in. Some time in the next year a guy who was guiding there bolted the crux on lead after cleaning off so much lichen you could see a streak down the wall from the parking lot and not knowing it had been climbed already gave it the name in parenthesis. So...Im not sure who really got the FA and dont really care that much but (and Im obviously biased here) I totally like our name the best since the route is Right to the Left of Back to the Front.
A little history on the multiple names. We climbed it ground up after rapping it to see if it was worth doing. I was too much of a chicken to commit to the crux on lead since there was no gear to prevent smacking the slab if you blew it so I made a runout traverse right, up 6 feet then back left to the horizontals above the crux. My wife followed, climbing the crux. That winter we went back to put in a bolt at the crux on lead but, I bit off more than I reckoned by trying a direct start up the face below the ramp start to BTTF. 15 or so feet up with no pro (after finding the first horizontal to be a shallow flare), I was just about to pull up to the second horizontal when a hold blew and I pitched, bouncing off of Old Man's traverse ledge, falling 30+ feet total and breaking my foot. With no pro in the fall smashed my wife into her anchor, the tree at the top of P2 of Prune, with a side collision that drove the side of her helmet into her head splitting it open, filling her helmet with blood and dazing her. She still held the fall super solid and is my hero. After extracting ourselves from that mess which happened on a Monday in late winter with no one around, we drove to the Petersburg hospital where a foreign exchange doc/intern/whatever tried telling my wife she was suffering from an STD and not a mild concussion. I got a pink cast.
Needless to say, the bolt never got put in. Some time in the next year a guy who was guiding there bolted the crux on lead after cleaning off so much lichen you could see a streak down the wall from the parking lot and not knowing it had been climbed already gave it the name in parenthesis. So...Im not sure who really got the FA and dont really care that much but (and Im obviously biased here) I totally like our name the best since the route is Right to the Left of Back to the Front.
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