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Routes in South Peak - West Face

The Balless Boltchoppers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Breakneck Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Broken Neck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Burns & Pleiss - 1974
Page Views: 6,449 total · 47/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

The Burn is the first route one comes to after hiking around the corner from the Southern End on one's way up the Stairmaster. Start on a block with a small tree.

P1: Climb up the face via cracks and through the overhang above to the Ecstasy Junior belay ledge. Most people stop here but there is a second pitch.

P2: Climb up the face to the right of a corner.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
The Burns starts at a ~3 foot boulder about 100 ft up the stair master.

One can escape the crux fingercrack of the route by stepping left to a small corner system and a tree (The Burn Escape 5.7). I have never seen or head of anyone doing the second pitch, but it is in the guidebook. I think most people just climb the 2 pitch of EJ (5.4) which is one of the best easy pitches at Seneca.

The Burn can be top ropped from a set a shuts below the ledge (the ones at the ledge are for rapping). It is a bit of a rope stretch for a 60 m rope. You may have to stand on the boulder at the base to belay. Feb 9, 2007
The shuts on the top of the Burn are no longer there as of 30 April 2007. Actually when I was there a couple weeks previous to this they had been cut. Similarly the anchors for sunshine are gone as well. If you rap on a single 60m from the rap rings / slung tree, you are going to have to down climb the ramp a bit. 5.easy downclimb though. Apr 30, 2007
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
If you can't tell from the name of the climb, this route is very sustained and has a reputation as an ankle-buster. I watched my friend Andy Welter take a 20 footer and break his ankle on this climb in the late 90s. Jun 14, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.8
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.8
The second pitch is character building and worth doing once. May 27, 2008
Frances Fierst    
 
I really enjoyed this route. The climbing was varied and sustained, especially at the top. I was able to did a little bit of everything (lie back, hand jams, and finger locks) etc, just in one pitch. There is a roomy belay ledge to bring up your second. Be careful rapping down if using a 60 m rope! Oct 3, 2010
Nate R
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Nate R   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Fantastic route, my first dose of seneca retard-sandbag-grading (the previous day I did stuff on south pillar that was all dead-on for grades). I give the 1st pitch 10a.

2nd pitch was also quite fun. Jun 3, 2011
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.9 PG13
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.9 PG13
Mark and Nate have it right! When I got to the crux I knew if I slipped (even if my piece held) I would break a leg at best. As I turned the crux my piece fell out. :O Gulp! I consider it a pretty serious route for the 5.8-5.9 leader, unless when you're at the crux you have the perfect gear with you, and you place it perfectly. Great pro above that, though. And, a hell of a fun route. Sep 30, 2011
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8+
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8+
Glad I didn't read the comments here before I got on this one. While I agree that this is on the harder end of 5.8, it is NOT a dangerous route. The move over the small roof is committing, but can be protected well with a blue Alien up high. I placed it, then downclimbed and rested before moving on. The crux comes in the thin cracks above where gear can be placed almost anywhere. Nov 6, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Awesome line with a "business end" that comes up and smacks you. I find this climb to have 3 cruxy sections in the upper cracks, each one having a good rest stance at the end if you can find it. The moves are consistently 5.8. Gear is anywhere you wanna place it. Just good climbing fun! May 7, 2012
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
  5.8+
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
  5.8+
You can protect the opening moves with a #5 metolius placed in the hollow flake slightly left of the tree. From here you can step up for a smaller cam in the same feature and then step right into the crack proper. May 13, 2012
ajtwoface
  5.8 PG13
ajtwoface  
  5.8 PG13
This a great route, but sustained. I got stung by a wasp right at the massive undercling about halfway up. Its a safe route, and it has a massive ledge at the end of the first pitch that it shares with EJ, sunshine, and Ecstasy. May 19, 2012
P. Sully
  5.8
P. Sully  
  5.8
my first route at Seneca, before we owned any cams.

we had to wade the river after the flood of '85 took the old bridge out. this was the crux.
my hands froze solid following Greg up the Burn and then only warmed up in the finger crack. Then they "burned" as the blood flowed back in. May 23, 2012
Evan Anderson
Boulder, CO
 
Evan Anderson   Boulder, CO
 
Sick route. Best way to get up to the west face. The second pitch is cool too and could benefit from more traffic. Traverse right under the roof and up a corner. You can use the same tree as the top of EJ for a belay anchor. Aug 22, 2013
adamsc
Cincinnati, OH
  5.8
adamsc   Cincinnati, OH
  5.8
Not sure if P2 goes up through the roof (it feels like a v4 problem?) but if it does, there is a baseball sized orange hold that is coming loose, you're going to have to find alt beta to get up. If you pull it, it could easily kill someone on the belay ledge. If P2 goes right of the corner, it's absolutely great and more people should do it. Mar 26, 2017
Going up the corner is the second pitch of Ecstasy Jr. - 5.4. The second pitch of the Burn goes straight up the crack and up over the roof and it's stout - definitely harder than the first pitch. I'm not a boulderer but I can imagine a V4 rating for the move or two over the roof. Apr 18, 2017
BrianWS
  5.8
BrianWS  
  5.8
V4 would put the route at 5.12. It is not that hard. Apr 18, 2017
Based on the Barnes topo, the second pitch (as it typically goes) climbs up to the roof then traverses right around the roof onto a ledge and then up a right facing corner (which is not the EJ corner). However, pulling the roof is apparently the direct finish. Jun 8, 2017
Rohan R Rao
Jacksonville, Florida
 
Rohan R Rao   Jacksonville, Florida
 
I did not have a guidebook and just jumped on this line as Ecstacy was crowded and The Burns looked doable. Definitely a fun line. After about half way through, I traversed left and finished the route with some stout moves on Sunshine (along the piton line) near the ledge. It definitely felt way harder than an .8 and cursed the Seneca sandbag, only to later learn those moves on Sunshine goes around .10a.

If you stick along on the proper route, wide crack to the right of Sunshine, the route feels more like a stout 5.8 - on par with Seneca grades.

Find some protection near the start.

No shuts - Rap off from the rap rings on the pitch one ledge (shared by Ecstacy Jr and Sunshine). Need a 70m for the rap, a 60m won't make it to the ground. Jun 26, 2017
Watch out! As of 16 Sep, there is an angry chipmunk defending its nest inside a crack about half way up! Sep 17, 2017
Stephen Lander
Columbus, OH
 
Stephen Lander   Columbus, OH
 
Did the roof pull yesterday, it was hard but certainly not V4. Overall, I'd say the second pitch was slightly harder, I'd give it a 10a/b on a normal grading scale. I don't know what the converts to at Seneca, probably 5.8 like the guide says.

Also, can confirm the chipmunk in the crack (I thought it was a pigeon when I heard it though) You can traverse around right to avoid it. Sep 25, 2017

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