Type: Sport, 55 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Howie Feinsilber 1992
Page Views: 16,312 total · 112/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

177 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


Description provided courtesy of Ladd Raine:

A truly memorable and classic climb!

Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life, then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!

This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.


All draws and anchors have fixed draws, climb and lower.


This climb can be found on the left side of the huge cave at the short dihedral that is under a long wandering line of chalked holds.
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
The third bolt on this route gets hammered by people falling on it. With the angle of the fall, it can sometimes move the hanger and cause the nut to get loose. Aug 28, 2015
James Elric
James Elric   rockville
I heard from multiple sources that the 3rd bolt has come out or is at least loose enough to make it unusable as pro (sometime in the last few weeks). Does anyone have any recent status or word on plans to replace it? @chris: is the situation just the normal loosening you describe? Note: anyone not familiar with the climb be advised that the third bolt is critical. Sep 8, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
The third bolt on this thing is fine. I just tightened it down with a wrench and added more goop. Sep 9, 2015
James Elric
James Elric   rockville
awesome! thanks a lot for taking care of it can't wait to get back on. Sep 9, 2015
Just an FYI, you can soft deck with a light belayer if you blow clipping the third clip. Seen it twice, heard of multiple more. Nov 13, 2017