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Routes in Narcissus Cave

Deep Throat S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ectomorph Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hang On Little Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jeff's Bunny Hop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locumba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Narcissus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Narcissus Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Project S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Simple Minds S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smilin' Jack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sniff the Drill S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicide Blonde S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That Eight S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Sport, 55 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Howie Feinsilber 1992
Page Views: 14,479 total, 110/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


142 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Description provided courtesy of Ladd Raine:

A truly memorable and classic climb!

Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life, then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!

This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.

Protection

All draws and anchors have fixed draws, climb and lower.

Location

This climb can be found on the left side of the huge cave at the short dihedral that is under a long wandering line of chalked holds.
Just an FYI, you can soft deck with a light belayer if you blow clipping the third clip. Seen it twice, heard of multiple more. Nov 13, 2017
James Elric
rockville
James Elric   rockville
awesome! thanks a lot for taking care of it can't wait to get back on. Sep 9, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
The third bolt on this thing is fine. I just tightened it down with a wrench and added more goop. Sep 9, 2015
James Elric
rockville
James Elric   rockville
I heard from multiple sources that the 3rd bolt has come out or is at least loose enough to make it unusable as pro (sometime in the last few weeks). Does anyone have any recent status or word on plans to replace it? @chris: is the situation just the normal loosening you describe? Note: anyone not familiar with the climb be advised that the third bolt is critical. Sep 8, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
The third bolt on this route gets hammered by people falling on it. With the angle of the fall, it can sometimes move the hanger and cause the nut to get loose. Aug 28, 2015