Type: Sport, 55 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Howie Feinsilber 1992
Page Views: 17,845 total · 115/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007 with improvements by Lee Kennedy
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Description provided courtesy of Ladd Raine:

A truly memorable and classic climb!

Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life, then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!

This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.

Protection

6 permadraws to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This climb can be found on the left side of the huge cave at the short dihedral that is under a long wandering line of chalked holds.

Photos