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Psycho Wrangler
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 240
votes
Routes in Cotton Top
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98% Cotton S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ass Waxer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Audiophering S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bio-Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cotton Gin and Tonic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cotton the Act S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cottonhead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cottonmouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Up V0 4 |
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End of Innocence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Final Twilight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fireman's Belay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grinder Center V3 6A |
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High Cotton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Incident V7- 7A+ |
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Intergalactic Orcas S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Johnny Chimpo V5 6C |
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Love Sock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mass Destruction V1 5 |
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Mighty Fine Shindig V5 6C |
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Ostracized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Psycho Wrangler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Q-tip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rheesist, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Shindig to Chimpo Connection V3 6A |
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Super mighty fine shindig V7 7A+ |
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Tainted Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tamarin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown 1 V6 7A |
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Unknown 2 V4 6B |
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We Got Problems V2 5+ |
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Wild and Wonderful S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wurst Route at the New, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.1151, -81.14094 |
| FA: | Kenny Parker, 2005 |
| Page Views: | 20,886 total · 108/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on May 10, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This is the route worth coming to this area for. Begin on less than vertical terrain below the first bolt and climb up to the first in a long series of jugs and tiered roofs. After clipping the third bolt, there are a few moves to get back into the unbelievably good holds. Find a lay down or good kneebar rest, clip the 5th draw, and then begin the 5.12- climbing for the last 2 bolts. The climbing up to the 5th draw is well below the stated difficulty grade for this route.
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