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Routes in Cotton Top

Ass Waxer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Audiophering S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bio-Slab S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotton Gin and Tonic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotton the Act S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cottonhead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cottonmouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
End of Innocence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Final Twilight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fireman's Belay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Intergalactic Orcas S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Love Sock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostracized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Wrangler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Q-tip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rheesist, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Slave Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tainted Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tamarin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kenny Parker, 2005
Page Views: 9,474 total, 103/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on May 10, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the route worth coming to this area for. Start at the right end of an overhanging face with a gray bottom and orange top. Climb up and traverse left past the first bolt. From here, trend up and left to reach the overhang at the 2nd right facing dihedral from the right. There's a rest at every bolt to the overhang. Pull the overhang aiming for the base of the upper orange left leaning dihedral (crux). Gain a stance and make a thin move, then its good holds to the finish.

Location

This route is very obvious. From the approach trail, either head to the cliff immediately and walk left for about 30 yards or just continue on the trail around a large boulder and this route will appear in front of you.

Protection

7 bolts and shuts at the top. The first bolt needs a draw, everything else has a permadraw on it.
Possibly my favourite route of all time! super fun movement, and an exciting whipper if you botch clipping the anchor like I did. Apr 29, 2017