Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: DB
Page Views: 869 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dan Brayack on May 6, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

On the face left of "Tainted Love", there are two sport routes. This is the right sport route and climb the clean face about 10 feet left of the obvious dihedral crack.

Location

Cotton Top, Left of Pyscho Wrangler and Directly left of "Tainted Love" on the opposite wall.

Protection

5 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.12
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.12
Actually a good bit of technical climbing on the upper face that is split into three different boulder problems with almost perfectly placed "rests". Oct 29, 2016
Kim Parretti
Worcester, MA
Kim Parretti   Worcester, MA
I got on this thinking it might end up being the crappy little outcast climb in the corner of the crag, but was pleasantly surprised and had a lot of fun on it!

Beta Spoiler Alert...

Harder than expected slab moves up the black rock deposit you at the base of the vertical wall where you launch into a powerful, foot-beta intensive boulder problem up some opposing crimps that ends with a decent horizontal crimp rail. Get a shake here and stare up at the next horizontal way above you. There are some hold possibilities between these two horizontals and maybe they felt so terrible because I was really tired, but I found that doing a big deadpoint between the two horizonals was the easiest solution for me (I'm 5'7"). The second horizontal is better than the first and you can get a good rest here before doing a final hard sequence with a big lock off to some balancy crimps just before the anchor. Oct 14, 2018