Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Williams, Rhee, Bjorling
Page Views: 1,373 total · 19/month
Shared By: camhead on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details
Access Issue: COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS Details

Description

This is a really fun, gymnastic route that has both steep, thuggish climbing, and delicate crimpy moves up top. Begin by soloing up easy terrain to the left of Psycho Wrangler. At the base of the roof, clip a long draw to the bolt in the back, get into a strenuous position on a glued flake for clipping the first of several perma-draws, and bust out a hard move to a jug out right. A few moves of easy steep climbing takes you to a hard clip and a pair of nice pockets, off of which you do the crux dyno. After this point you get a great recovery jug before moving into a very thin, techy sequence up the vertical headwall above, and one more little roof pull.

Location

Steep line just to the left of the classic Psycho Wrangler.

Protection

9 bolts, including 3 or 4 permadraws.

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