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Routes in Cotton Top

Ass Waxer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Audiophering S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bio-Slab S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotton Gin and Tonic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotton the Act S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cottonhead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cottonmouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
End of Innocence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Final Twilight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fireman's Belay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Incident V7 7A+
Intergalactic Orcas S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Johnny Chimpo V5 6C
Love Sock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostracized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Wrangler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Q-tip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rheesist, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Slave Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tainted Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tamarin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
We Got Problems V2 5+
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Williams, Rhee, Bjorling
Page Views: 900 total, 20/month
Shared By: camhead on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a really fun, gymnastic route that has both steep, thuggish climbing, and delicate crimpy moves up top. Begin by soloing up easy terrain to the left of Psycho Wrangler. At the base of the roof, clip a long draw to the bolt in the back, get into a strenuous position on a glued flake for clipping the first of several perma-draws, and bust out a hard move to a jug out right. A few moves of easy steep climbing takes you to a hard clip and a pair of nice pockets, off of which you do the crux dyno. After this point you get a great recovery jug before moving into a very thin, techy sequence up the vertical headwall above, and one more little roof pull.

Location

Steep line just to the left of the classic Psycho Wrangler.

Protection

9 bolts, including 3 or 4 permadraws.

Photos

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