Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Adam Harrington
Page Views: 661 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Jul 7, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Keep heading "climber's left" past the uber-classic psycho wrangler to find the short bolted seam, Tainted Love. Unfortunately for crack climbers you won't find a single finger lock on this route, instead you'll be crimping, hanging onto to finger buckets, and making reaches for all you're worth.
At the 4th bolt you'll enter the crux. Figure out a way to utilize the crappy left hand sidepull, pull up to an ear, grab a crimp, stand really tall with piss poor feet and grab another crimp, and then stab out right to a jug rail. Clip the route's last bolt and hope you don't botch the powerful ending.
I hear this route is nearly impossible if you are under 5'6" but I personally wouldn't let that hold me back. Where there's a will, there's a way. With that said, there is no way I could do this thing if I was a few inches shorter.

Location

Just left of Intergalactic Orcas

Protection

5 bolts and 2-bolt anchor

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