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Routes in Cotton Top

Ass Waxer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Audiophering S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bio-Slab S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotton Gin and Tonic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotton the Act S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cottonhead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cottonmouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
End of Innocence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Final Twilight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fireman's Belay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Incident V6 7A
Intergalactic Orcas S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Johnny Chimpo V5- 6C
Love Sock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mighty Fine Shindig V5 6C
Ostracized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Wrangler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Q-tip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rheesist, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Slave Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tainted Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tamarin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
We Got Problems V2 5+
Wurst Route at the New, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Adam Harrington
Page Views: 596 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Jul 7, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Keep heading "climber's left" past the uber-classic psycho wrangler to find the short bolted seam, Tainted Love. Unfortunately for crack climbers you won't find a single finger lock on this route, instead you'll be crimping, hanging onto to finger buckets, and making reaches for all you're worth.
At the 4th bolt you'll enter the crux. Figure out a way to utilize the crappy left hand sidepull, pull up to an ear, grab a crimp, stand really tall with piss poor feet and grab another crimp, and then stab out right to a jug rail. Clip the route's last bolt and hope you don't botch the powerful ending.
I hear this route is nearly impossible if you are under 5'6" but I personally wouldn't let that hold me back. Where there's a will, there's a way. With that said, there is no way I could do this thing if I was a few inches shorter.

Location

Just left of Intergalactic Orcas

Protection

5 bolts and 2-bolt anchor

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