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Routes in Cotton Top
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98% Cotton S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ass Waxer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Audiophering S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bio-Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cotton Gin and Tonic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cotton the Act S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cottonhead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cottonmouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Up V0 4 |
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End of Innocence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Final Twilight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fireman's Belay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grinder Center V3 6A |
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High Cotton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Incident V6-7 7A+ |
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Intergalactic Orcas S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Johnny Chimpo V5 6C |
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Love Sock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mass Destruction V1 5 |
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Mighty Fine Shindig V5 6C |
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Ostracized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Psycho Wrangler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Q-tip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rheesist, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Super mighty fine shindig V7 7A+ |
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Tainted Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tamarin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown 1 V6 7A |
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Unknown 2 V4 6B |
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We Got Problems V2 5+ |
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Wild and Wonderful S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wurst Route at the New, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Adam Harrington 2005 |
| Page Views: | 1,859 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph DeGaetano on Jul 7, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Keep heading "climber's left" past the uber-classic psycho wrangler to find the short bolted seam, Tainted Love. Unfortunately for crack climbers you won't find a single finger lock on this route, instead you'll be crimping, hanging onto to finger buckets, and making reaches for all you're worth.
At the 4th bolt you'll enter the crux. Figure out a way to utilize the crappy left hand sidepull, pull up to an ear, grab a crimp, stand really tall with piss poor feet and grab another crimp, and then stab out right to a jug rail. Clip the route's last bolt and hope you don't botch the powerful ending.
I hear this route is nearly impossible if you are under 5'6" but I personally wouldn't let that hold me back. Where there's a will, there's a way. With that said, there is no way I could do this thing if I was a few inches shorter.
At the 4th bolt you'll enter the crux. Figure out a way to utilize the crappy left hand sidepull, pull up to an ear, grab a crimp, stand really tall with piss poor feet and grab another crimp, and then stab out right to a jug rail. Clip the route's last bolt and hope you don't botch the powerful ending.
I hear this route is nearly impossible if you are under 5'6" but I personally wouldn't let that hold me back. Where there's a will, there's a way. With that said, there is no way I could do this thing if I was a few inches shorter.
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