Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Bob Rentka 1990
Page Views: 17,866 total · 143/month
Shared By: Kevin Detlor on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


230 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Beautiful route! Lots of big reaches to good holds down low leads to a small roof. pull the roof and begin the right arching crack line. keep trending right on crimps and up to next roof. here you have an option to continue right and finish straight up to make the route 11a, or trend left on a different line of bolts for the 11d finish. No distiguishable crux on this route with good rests at each bolt.

Location

The more beautiful neighbor to the right of Discombobulated (11a).

Protection

10 bolts to bolted anchor.
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.11a
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.11a
Do this route! Awesome, varied movement on a beautiful piece of rock. Although it's a sport route, I found that it climbed a lot like a bolted trad route.

It starts with some impeccable face climbing for the first few bolts. I was able to reach some better holds at 5'11" than my girlfriend was at 5'5", which made getting to the first bolt a bit easier.

Solid crack climbers should cruise the dihedral in the middle. Judging by the chalk, it looks like it's possible (or at least attempted) by some on small crimps through that section too.

Make some tough moves getting into the next roof section. If you're not too pumped by the end, make a few last hard moves to the chains and soak in the awesome view from the top.

My new favorite sport pitch. Full value! May 26, 2015