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Routes in Snake Buttress

A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Bob Rentka 1990
Page Views: 14,856 total, 134/month
Shared By: kjdetlor on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


189 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Beautiful route! Lots of big reaches to good holds down low leads to a small roof. pull the roof and begin the right arching crack line. keep trending right on crimps and up to next roof. here you have an option to continue right and finish straight up to make the route 11a, or trend left on a different line of bolts for the 11d finish. No distiguishable crux on this route with good rests at each bolt.

Location

The more beautiful neighbor to the right of Discombobulated (11a).

Protection

10 bolts to bolted anchor.
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.11a
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.11a
Do this route! Awesome, varied movement on a beautiful piece of rock. Although it's a sport route, I found that it climbed a lot like a bolted trad route.

It starts with some impeccable face climbing for the first few bolts. I was able to reach some better holds at 5'11" than my girlfriend was at 5'5", which made getting to the first bolt a bit easier.

Solid crack climbers should cruise the dihedral in the middle. Judging by the chalk, it looks like it's possible (or at least attempted) by some on small crimps through that section too.

Make some tough moves getting into the next roof section. If you're not too pumped by the end, make a few last hard moves to the chains and soak in the awesome view from the top.

My new favorite sport pitch. Full value! May 26, 2015