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Routes in Snake Buttress

A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed (1992)
Page Views: 2,055 total, 28/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This striking line travels through perfect yellow and brown rock and has a little bit of everything on it. Slopey slab climbing leads to an aggressive dyno around a roof. After a good shake bust out of an undercling and choose your method to reach the base of the final roof. This section is thin and technical.

Shake out at the base of the roof, delaying the inevitable fall, and prepare to get mowed down by a typical NRG finish. Expect slopey hand holds, a lack of footholds, no chalk to mark the holds and a healthy amount of grime. Take the fall, curse the stone, and then rave about the cryptic movement once you figure it out. This really is one of the coolest finishes around.

This route was initially called "Black Rider." The current name is misleading. Don't expect a lot of pockets on this thing.

Location

This route is just around the corner from "Bullet the New Sky." Look for a thin seam that travels up bright colored stone.

Protection

9 bolts + anchor

Photos

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